QuestionQUESTION: I am believing that the valve lifter has went bad I cranked it the spring and rocker arms moved up and down and their was no play. So I would say you are right. This vehicle was the one where the valve covers would leak I the right side where the noise is. How hard is it now to get to the valve lifter and how hard is it. The lifter is only 10 dollars which is no big deal. If it is to hard I will let some one else do it. Thanks and my name is Sean sorry for not putting this is.
ANSWER: HI SEAN, WELL IF THE ROCKER ARMS ALL LOOK GOOD,AND WHEN YOU CRANK THE ENGINE OVER THE VALVES ARE ALL MOVING AT EQUAL RATES.. WE JUST WANT TO MAKE SURE THE CAM LOBES ARE ALL OK..SO IF ALL OF THE ABOVE LOOKS GOOD. THEN THE LIFTERS ARE THE PROBLEM. IF YOU ARE GOING TO DO ALL OF THIS WORK I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU REPLACE ALL OF THE LIFTERS..IF ONE WENT BAD OTHERS MAY HAVE GONE BAD OR WEAK AS WELL. THE ENTIRE TOP OFF THE ENG HAS TO COME APART, SUCH AS INTAKE AND ON AND ON..ONCE THE INTAKE AND VALVE COVERS ARE OFF, YOU REMOVE EACH ROCKER ARM ASSM AND REMOVE ALL THE PUSH RODS MARKING EACH ONE SO YOU KNOW WHERE EACH ONE CAME FROM..WITH THE PUSH RODS REMOVED JUST LIFT EACH LIFTER OUT OF ITS BORE AND PUT THE NEW ONES BACK IN AFTER YOU SOAKED THEM IN OIL OVERNIGHT...REVERSE THE TASK AND YOU ARE GOOD TO GO. WHEN YOU PUT THE ROCKER ARMS BACK ON THERE WILL BE A TORQUE SPEC ON ROCKER ARM NUTS..YOU CAN FIND THAT ON LINE OR IN REPAIR MANUAL. MAKE SURE YOU MARK THE DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR ON THE FIREWALL OR WHAT EVER SO YOU KNOW HOW IT GOES BACK, OR ELSE THE ENGINE WILL BE OUT OF TIME. BUT I WILL ASSUME YOU KNOW THAT. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED MORE INFO. GOOD LUCK TO YOU,,,,TOM
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QUESTION: One last question for now. I see in the book that you have to compress the cylinder to remove the valve spring and also the valve stem seals. The book does not say what the cylinder has to be compressed air wise. Or can I just skip this step and remove the cylinder head to get to the lifter. Thanks.
ANSWER: HI SEAN,,YOU ARE GETTING WAY AHEAD OF YOURSELF..YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE HEADS JUST THE INTAKE MANIFOLD AND VALVE COVERS...THE HEADS STAY ON..THIS IS NOT A LS1 OR NEWER MOTOR. SO THE HEADS DO NOT NEED TO BE REMOVED..HOPE THIS HELPS YOU,,,TOM
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QUESTION: Oh ok I thought this was an LS1 motor. I have the 1998 Z28 Chevy Camaro 5.7L motor. The dealer and other friends have told me I have the LS1 motor. But I will do like you said to get to it. Thanks.
AnswerHI SEAN,DOES THE 1998 Z/28 HAVE A LS1 ??? IF IT IS,, THE HEADS DO HAVE TO COME OFF...I THOUGHT THIS DID NOT HAVE A LS1 ENGINE..IT IS EASY TO TELL. IF YOU REMOVE THE INTAKE MANIFOLD AND YOU SEE THE LIFTERS YOU DO NOT HAVE A LS1 MOTOR. ONCE YOU REMOVE THIS YOU SHOULD SEE THE LOWER BELLY OF THE BLOCK..IF NOT THEN THIS IS A LS1 AND YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE HEADS,BUT YOU WILL NOT HAVE TO TOUCH THE VALVES THEY WILL STAY IN THE HEADS..LEAVE THEM BE..GOOD LUCK AND LET ME KNOW HOW THIS WORKS OUT FOR YOU,,,TOM
HI SEAN,,YOU ARE 100 % CORRECT THE HEADS DO HAVE TO BE REMOVED YOUR Z/28 DOES HAVE THE LS1 MOTOR. BUT AS I SAID YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE VALVES FROM THE HEADS..ALSO THE REASON I GOT BACK TO YOU ON THIS IS YOU COULD TRY A TOP END ENGINE CLEANER TO SEE IF MAYBE THERE IS DIRT CAUSING THE LIFTER NOT TO BLEED UP OR AND JUNK INSIDE THE PUSH RODS. YOU CAN GET THIS AT TANY PARTS STORE. JUST FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE CAN..IT IS WORTH A TRY BEFORE YOU TEAR THE ENG DOWN...GOOD LUCK TO YOU,,,TOM..
