QuestionMy son has been looking at a 88 Corsica and the owner said it needs a new fuel pump. It hadn't been started for about 6 months and needed a jump to start. It ran for about 20 minutes and during that time he checked the forward movement and rear movement of the car. After about 20 minutes it just shut down and the battery was not able to start the car again. Question. This sounds more like an electrical problem to me, possibly alternator. But, can the fuel pump just shut down after a time of running?
AnswerHi Chuck,
Look on traderonline.com and kbb.com, to see what this car is worth. Make sure you don't get into something that is too expensive.
The fuel pump runs on the battery, as does the computer and other systems. If the alternator is not recharging the battery, the battery will run out of ability to keep everything running. You want to check the charging system. You want to replace the battery, even if the alternator checks out to be bad. The battery is toast as well.
To check the charging system, you want to buy a cheap volt meter. Here in Michigan, we have ACO hardware. Just this week I was there and saw a decent volt/ohm meter on sale for $10. Matching the cable colors to the meter lead colors, check the battery voltage. Should be 12.2V to 12.6V. Anything less means bad battery. While attached to the battery, have an assistant turn the key to start the car. The battery should not dip below 11.6V. If it gets to 10.9V, the battery is bad. I would say, just assume a bad battery. Now start the car. Put the test leads on the terminals. You should see 13.8V to 14.3V at the battery, with the car running, on a GM. If it is less, than the minumum, the alternator is shot.
If the car ran 20 minutes, before it konked out, I am having a hard time believing the fuel pump is bad. It could be, but possibly not. If the seller says it is bad, then go with it. He may raise the price if he thinks the only problem is the charging system. Just know, the pump may be good afterall.
Check the car for codes. There is a keychain type of code checker available at the auto parts store. Under $5. You plug the prongs into the ALDL connector, with the key on. The check engine will blink the codes, it there are any.
Also check the suspension and brakes. Bounce the car at front and rear bumpers. After bouncing it for about 10 seconds, stop and the car should bounce once, then stop. If you get 2 or more bounces, the shocks/struts are bad. Look at the front (and rear) tires for wear. The fronts may have moved to the rear, by the seller, to hide defects in front suspension. Look at the tire wear across the treads. If the treads are worn on the inside of the tread pattern, this could indicate a ball joint. Drag your hand across the tread, between the inside and outside walls of the tire. If the treads feel 'sharp' in one direction but not the other, this indicates tir-rod issues. Drag your hand forward and backward across the tire tread. If the treads feel 'lumpy', this could indicate a bad strut. Open the master cylinder cap/lid. If the brake fluid is low, this indicates worn brakes. Pull out the dipstick for the transmission. If it is black, dark brown, or new looking, become alarmed. No older car has new looking tranny fluid. It will have some wear. If it is new, and no work was recently performed, then suspect leak or hiding something. Dark or black is burned fluid from running too hot. Smell it for nasty burned smell. Look at the radiator condition. Corroded, green tarnished, white filmy or crusty build up is indicator of old-old-old. Look for this at hose clamps, and on radiator front and back fins. Look at the accessory drive belt (serpentine) for cracks on the ribbed side. If lots of cracks are present, then it has been a while since a professional tune-up. Also indicates cheap owner, cutting corners. No preventive maintenance.
I hope these tips help. Sometimes a good price is not a good deal.
Good luck.
C J S
