QuestionQUESTION: my problem is the car runs fine for about 20 min then shuts off will not restart problem is no spark condition have swaped out ecm coilpack crank and cam sensors all with no luck there is also no check engine light. If the car sits a while it will start also checked all wiring to whats listed above and o2 sensors seem fine. thanks for any help you can give me.
ANSWER: Hi Brian,
Have you checked for fault codes, either with a code reader (or a free readout at a nationwide autoparts store) or via the ignition key: "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time? If you have a pre-98 watch for flashing of the check engine light (count the flashes before each pause) or if a '98-on watch for 4-digit numbers in place of the mileage reading of the odometer. There are other sensors than can cause this but a code for a specific fault will save you from throwing any more money at the problem. Let me know and counts/codes and also the year and engine size (L).
Roland
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QUESTION: It's a 1994 chrysler lhs 3.5 no codes in the scanner how ever do have flashes cycling the key 3flashes then 2 quick 5 flashes then 4 quick
AnswerHi Brian,
The 32 code suggests that there is a problem with the exhaust gas recircualation valve, possibly failing to close tightly which leans out the misture as you slow down to a stop or idle. The exhaust gas recirculation valve which is located behind the engine near the air intake throttle valve. It is mounted in a pipe that runs between passenger side exhaust manifold and the air intake manifold. The valve is mounted horizontally and has a valve stem between its round vacuum actuator top and the body of the valve attached to the pipe, inside the flange that connects the two parts. The stem has a slot into which you can insert the tip of a flat-bladed screwdriver so as to lever the stem back and forth against spring action which should move freely and close tightly. If the stem seems to be sticky so that stem doesn't close all the way by spring action, then you can try spraying some penetrating solvent like WD-40 on the valve stem to freeup its motion.
If the valve is sticking slightly ajar it will make for a rough idle or failure to idle. It is one of the most common causes of this symptom. So see if you can find the valve and check/lubricate the stem. To check it in motion you can rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle and watch to see if the valve stem moves freely in both directions to the extreme open and closed positions. It may be that the interior of the valve is cruddy so that might require that it be unbolted from the pipe where it it attached and cleaned. But chances are good it will only be a sticky stem.
The other counts were actually 5 and 5 I would believe, which simply means 'end of readout'.
Now the 32 code will not cause a loss of spark, so I am a bit concerned that we don't have the answer yet. Do try the code readout again and let me know if some other numbers are actually present. If you had a 54 and then a 55, that would suggest there is still a problem with the cam sensor and that would be consistent with a loss of spark. How may many key on-off cycles has there been since you changed the cam sensor? If at least 100 then it may well be a fresh code which does suggest that the cam sensor may not be installed close enough to the cam sprocket. If it has been less than 100 then it may be a stale code unless you disconnected the battery briefly after changing the sensor which will erase the codes stored in the controller.
Roland
