Chrysler Repair: 97 Chysler Sebring will not start, crankshaft position sensor, mechanical function

Question
Ronald, I have read some of your post and I must say I feel comfortable in asking for help with my current problem. I have a 97 Sebring convertible 2.5L (H in the vin)  that stop running a few months ago. It would crank over but not start. I did a pressure test on the fuel line and it was weak so I replaced the fuel pump and filter. I was not getting a spark so I also replaced the distributor, spark plugs and wires, and since I was already in that area I replaced the crankshaft position sensor. Well the car still will not start on it's own. Starting fluid works great and it will turn on but not stay on so I do not believe I am getting any fuel. I can hear the pump turn on for the required 2 seconds when I turn the key but my line at the firewall is bone dry. I know where the ASD fuse is at and I did swap it out with another fuse but no luck. Could it be that my PCM is bad? Any guidance to this mystery will be greatly appreciated my friend, thanks.

Answer
Hi Joel,
It may be a problem with the pressure regulator not maintaining fuel in the fuel rail by allowing the in-pumped gas to return directly to the pump instead of building up and maintaining the pressure to around 50 psi, based upon your observation. If you hear the pump run when you turn the key to run position then there should be fuel being supplied to the injectors when you then try the starter.
Leaving aside the possible fuel supply/pressure regulator as the cause, let me suggest another common no start/no codes (I assume you have no fault codes when you do the key on-off-on-off-on routine in 5 seconds or less, correct?):
that would be that the egr valve. Here is how I described it to another owner of that engine this morning:
The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle.  Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't start, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too crudy and corroded inside, is the next step to getting the engine to start.
Roland