QuestionQUESTION: Problems originated with no high beams, no power locks, cruise control out then radio went out, checked fuses all were fine. Don't know if problems are related but now (a couple weeks after the above issues) the engine cuts out while driving. Did spray ether and it started but soon died out again. Fuel pump was not kicking on. Fuel pump was replaced, the van started and drove about 1 mile then died. Removed the negative cable, let sit over night. Started the next day and drove for about 5 miles, no problems. Started later and drove for aprox 5-6 miles fine, then died out. We already checked the fuel pump relays they were fine. After removing the negative cable, waiting then replacing car will start but won't stay running. Seems that the fuel pump is resetting but have no idea what to do or check now??? Thinking possibly a bad PCM??? Hoping you have some ideas. Thanks in advance!!!
ANSWER: Hi Stephanie,
I suspect that either the camshaft position sensor or the crankshaft position sensor is failing as what you described is exactly what they do. Use the ignition key to get engine fault codes:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light to see it begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat to be sure of an accurate set of flash counts. Then group the count in pairs to form the 2-digit fault codes. The last code is always 55 because that means end of readout. A code 11 means that the crank sensor is bad, a code 54 means the cam sensor is bad. Let me know of other codes, if any. Also let me know the engine (L) in the vehicle. Then I can give you specifics about replacing the bad sensor.
The fuel pump requires that there be good working sensors, so that is why it wouldn't run, rather than that it was bad.
The other problems could be either specific fuses and/or the cruise control could be due to a failure of the flexible coupling between the steering column and the steering wheel, called the 'clockspring'. Anyother controls on the steering wheel might also stop if that were the case, such as the horn or the radio (if radio controls are on the steering wheel. The high beams could be the high beam relay, the dimmer switch, or fuses 4 and 5 in the fuse box under the hood or even the filaments in the bulbs. The door locks could be fuse 28 (IOD) in that same box but the interior lights would also be off were that the case.
Lets work on the engine problem first.
Roland
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QUESTION: Hi again Roland....
Need to ask another question since my husband is being hard headed. He is doubting that it would be one of the sensors as there are no engine codes and he is getting power every where else except the fuel pump. That being said do you still think it would be the sensors? (He is thinking that there would be engine codes if it were one of the sensors). Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks!!! Steph
ANSWER: Hi Stephanie,
What you describe is very much like how sensors begin to fail. He could ride along, then check the signals from the sensors when it fails. The sensor ground is pin 43 of the pcm, the cam signal is on pin 33, and crank on pin 32. A voltmeter placed between the sensor signal and ground should show a voltage swing between 5v and 0.3v as he turns the engine crankshaft over by hand using a ratchet on the crank pulley bolt. If you don't see the pulsing, when it won't start, then that would be the weak sensor. But if he is getting spark, then the sensors are ok.
He could take a look at fuse 16 in the power box under the hood to see if it might have a crack in its wire, and also verify the positive temp coefficent device #1 in the box under the dash similarly might be flakey. Those power the fuel pump.
But the fuel pump is activated by the pcm which will only do that when it is receiving pulses from the can and crank sensors. So those are the possibilities that I see for the fuel pump not putting out. Tell me the engine (L) if you write back.
Roland
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QUESTION: Hi Roland...
Well, thanks for your suggustions but unfortunately it was neither the cam or crank sensors. Back to square one. Husband is thinking it is the body control module? Any other thoughts/suggestions? Oh did I mention the van won't start now except every once in awhile? By the way, it's a 3.3L R. Thanks! Steph
AnswerAre there any fault codes? See my earlier response for how to check that out.
If there are no codes, then about the only other possibility is the egr valve being stuck ajar which will not often be detected and coded when it happens. The valve is located near the throttle body air intake at the end of the engine, mounted in pipe that recirculates exhaust gas from the rear cylider bank exhaust manifold back around to the intake manifold. The exhaust gases have some fumes that can plate out a crud on the valve stem and thus keep it from closing tight when you are at idle. That makes for a too lean mixture so the engine stalls. The valve proper is mounted horizontally with the stem visible in a space between the body of the valve mounted on the pipe and the round top of the valve which is flanged and so if you look carefully you will see a metal rod (stem of the valve) with a slot around its circumference. You can take the tip of flat blade screwdriver and insert it in the slot and then lever the valve back and forth to check if it is moving freely (against spring action in one direction) or not. If it doesn't seem to close easily with the help of the built-in spring, then I would spray the base of the stem with solvent from a pressure can (such as WD-40 or carb cleaner) while moving the stem back and forth. Then see if that solves the issue.
I don't see the body control to be involve in this sort of a problem.
Roland
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