Chrysler Repair: 98 sebring 2.5L - No Crank, solenoid switch, starter relay

Question
I've had my 98 sebring for just a 4 days. Seems well maintained by previous owner of 10 yrs.
On day number 2 it labored while starting like the battery was dead, but it did start. Drove it to work no problems sat for about 5 hours and did the same thing again while starting. I left it running for about 30 minutes in the parking lot to charge the battery, but it was still a little slow to start. Another 5 or so hours until I  left and then like there was no problem it fired right up. the next day was fine. Then 2 more slow starts and now nothing... no solenoid click just silence. The batter seems fine all the bells and lights work the top goes up and down at normal speed. When I tried to jump it the same thing, nothing. So i read the message boards and thought maybe the starter relay..changed it but no. now wondering starter? cables? really I have no idea and before expensive replacement of things I thought I'd ask. Any advice is appreciated!! Thanks

Also if it comes down to replacing the starter I have 2 more questions; I have no easy way of disposing of the oil so I'm wondering how much oil will the car loose when I remove the filter? and What size socket or wrench will I need for the starter, positive wire bolt and exhaust pipe joint? I'll have to but them so looking for one trip to the auto parts. Thank you!!!

Answer
Hi Mark,
It could well be the battery or perhaps some sort of a short that is draining it down. But if you are certain that the jump start was done with a car that had its engine running at the time and that the cables were well connected then you have to assume it is not the battery.
I would begin by verifying that the starter relay clicks softly when a helper tries the key and you listen at the powerbox for the sound or even feel it to sense that it closes. If so, then it would be good to verify that the wire between the outboard pin of the starter relay socket and the starter motor solenoid switch (brown in color) is patent using an ohmmeter or continuity tester between the starter relay socket outboard pin socket and the connection at the solenoid at the starter.
If both those prove out then you have to wonder about the solenoid/starter assembly. Just in case, because this is a new vehicle to you,  you might check the cable clamps at the battery to be sure they are bright and tight and check the ground wires from the rear of the engine and battery to the left strut tower to see that they are clean and firmly attached at the strut tower. All these check will assure that you have good conduction of current through the starter motor circuit from the + post of the battery to the - post of the battery. You can appear to have a good battery but if there is resistance to current along these major current carrying wires then you might not get cranking.
On the oil filter question, it would only be that in the filter itself and shouldn't amount to more than 12 oz. Just put a pan underneath it as you remove it. The oil in the filter will not be any worse than in the crankcase, so just pour it back into the engine via the oil filler cap. I don't see mention of the exhaust pipe joint in the manual, but you will probably find the starter bolts are 13 mm and the positive wire might be 12 mm but that is a guess on my part.
Roland
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