Question---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: so this problem has become more frequent now and really is driving me nuts. i have gotten these codes which all point to the skim modules (p1684, p1685 and p1686). i have also been told by a chrysler service person that all the symptoms i have told him tells him that the ignitions switch is bad. after thinking about it every issue with the dummy lights to the gauges failing happen when you first turn the key in the ignition. might this be the problem after all or is it a skim issue?
thanks
Answer Hi Lee,
You can check some fuses with the key in the 'run' position while you have the problem to check out the 4 sections of the switch for function:
if fuses 1,4,8 and 14 in the box behind the left end-cap of the dash all have power then the ignition switch is working. Let me know otherwise.
The skim needs fuses I and L in the box under the hood, and also fuses 14 and 19 in the dash to function properly, again when the key in the run position for the latter fuses. The 1684 means the battery was disconnected in the past 50-100 key cycles, and is not related to the skim. The 1685 and 6 do relate to the skim but I would believe the engine would start and die if the skim were an issue.
Roland
Did you check the door ajar possibility?
PS Please 'rate' my answer. Thanks
i did check the door and i get no feedback on that. seems the doors are fine. from what i have read when the alarm dash light stays on that means there is a fault with the skim (this is when all the problems occur) but i agree that if it was the case the car wouldnt run for long. but of course it knock it out of the equation. now i did check all the fuses and all are in working order (none are blown). oh and i forgot that i got a p1687 code also. every symptom that occurs while driving still leads me to believe there might be a short in the ignition switch which is causing the car to think its not started. i have a feeling i will have to take it back to the dealer.
AnswerHi Lee,
It is good you found the fuses I called your attention to are not blown. Now the issue is whether they will show 12V when you experience your problem. There are four sections to the ignition switch, and the fuses you have looked at are each connected to one of those sections. When you actually experience your problem would be the time to check each of those fuses sockets to see whether or not each one of them shows 12V compared to ground (any shiny metal structural surface nearby to the fuse box). If one of those show no voltage to be present then that would be proof of a faulty ignition switch. If all of them show 12V while you have the problem then the switch is not the reason for your problem. So carry along a voltmeter or 12v glow light and check this out.
The 1687 says the cluster bus digital communication is impaired. That may be due to a cold solder joint between one of the socket pins and the circuit board holes to which they attach. That could be investigated and repaired by putting a solder pencil on each joint and reheating it. Particularly look at interconnection at pin 5 of the green plug socket which is the bus wire.
Roland
