QuestionQUESTION: hi roland - 1st i would like to thank you for all your help - with your input i had pinpointed the problem to the fuel pump - if i bang on the tank hard to pump will kick in for a while but then will stop. i see on line the prices start at $60 to $280 for the 1997 town and country pump with the sending unit - is there a reason for the price diferaces? thanks again greg
ANSWER: Hi Greg,
I don't happen to know of whether there is more than one manufacturer, but see if you can find out model #/manufacturer. It may just have to do with different 'mark up' in the price by the different vendors. You are welcome, and thanks for the rating/nomination.
Roland
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QUESTION: hi roland - i got the tank hanging down got the pump out of the tank but can't get the electrical connection off the pump. i moved the red tab over and tried to pull even used a small pocket knife to try to get it disconnected but will not move - i don't want to break it - any ideas - thanks again greg
ANSWER: Hi Greg,
If you examine the plug you will see at the far end from the wires a sliding tab (lock) so push that to the unlock position, then push down on the connector retainer (appears to be lighter color) and pull the connector of the module.
Roland
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QUESTION: hi again roland - i was feeling good about the fuel pump issue but when i went to drive the 1998 town and country i noticed the speedometer was not working and the gear positions for p n r d 2 1 all had round circles around all the positions so it did not indicate which position it was in and the van was revving up to 4k to go 50 mph. i'm guessing i must have set something out of wrack when i was under the dash pulling out the black relays which looked all the same p/n and may have not gone in the same position and i believe they are murphy proof - can you tell me which ones would cause the above problem - thanks greg
AnswerHi Greg,
I don't believe the relays in the fuse box under the dash has anything to do with the speedo/gear indication problem, nor wouul relays under the hood. The 905 code you got when you did the readout via the trip reset on the dash alerts you to the problem being a lack of digital information coming to the cluster from the body computer. It could be that one of the two wires that are involved are not making good connections to the cluster circuit board due to a 'cold' solder joint between the multi-wire socket pin and the circuit board proper. Those are pins 9 and 10 of the cluster. I would suggest that you remove the cluster and open it enough to get a soldering pencil to the circuit board where the plug connects to it. The touch a hot soldering pencil to the solder points for those two pins to re-establish a good connection. The other ends of the wires are at pins 34 and 3 at the body control module which is on the back side of the under dash fuse box. The plugs are on the lower edge of the module so you may not have to remove anything other than the 2 40-pin plugs to find those two wires and check for continuity between those and cluster board solder joints.
The high rpms indicates to me that you aren't shifting out of 2nd gear. While that could be related to the cluster problem (see if so after you resolve that) is could also be a fault in the transmission itself. I would do the code readout with the ignition switch and watch for the 4-digit codes if any that show up in the odometer window (do this without using the trip reset button, just the key action only). If you get a code let me know. If you don't then get a free readout at an Autozone parts store via the socket under the dash by the steering column. We'll go from there.
Locking up in 2nd gear is called limp in mode and is designed to prevent damage to the trans. It is possible that the trans relay in the box under the hood is faulty or the wrong one if you moved them around. The trans relay is the third one counting from the rear of the box. so you could try switching those around again.
Roland
