Chrysler Repair: 03 stratus sedan: one power window flaky, fuse box, power voltage


Question
QUESTION: trying to get to the bottom of my problem, passenger front window would go down consistently but only go up intermittently, finally stopped going up all together, replaced pass. and driver door switches, replaced motor. none of which were the problem. bared myself a spot on each wire to test, when switch pushed down power @ 1 wire, switch up power @ both wires. cut wire that had power for both up and down, grounded that wire coming from motor (did not allow wire coming from bcm to ground) hit switch up motor went up. would this be my bcm?????

ANSWER: Hi Garett,
First off the bcm is not involved at all with the windows, it is all handled by single positive wire from the circuit breaker no.2 in the fuse box behind the dash, and by a single ground point on the left side of the instrument panel. There are 4 switches (an up and a down on the driver control and and up and a down on the passenger control). The switches have to make good contacts  with their 'poles' when they are in the active position and also when they are in the neutral position (a total of 8 poles therefor) for their to be good control of the passenger window. If you replaced both controls and the motor and that did nothing to improve the situation, and assuming the replacement parts were working properly, then the problem has to be in the three circuit wires that are involved in the interplay between the two controls. If you will tell me the color of the wire which solved the problem when it is grounded, then I can probably tell you what to look for to fix the situation.  
By the way, the overall circuit is designed so that 'power/voltage' is reversed in its polarity at the motor to drive the window up or down. When the system is at rest you will find no voltage on either wire at the motor, both will be grounded. But when you hit up, the violet wire will be lifted from ground and have 12v on it, while the brown wire remains grounded, and then you hit down the brown wire will be lifted from from ground and have 12v applied to it and the violet remains grounded. This is the same whether you use the driver or the passenger control. It is basically the same idea as in house wiring where you can turn a light on from two different switches. Those three interconnecting wires are actually segmented because they pass through disconnects or an internal wire of the fuse box and 2 plug interfaces so all those connections are possible causes for your intermittency. So answer my question about the color(s) of the wire you grounded and I will have a chance of telling you what to do.
Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: i grounded the violet wire coming from the motor.

Answer
Hi Garrett,
Grounding that wire to get the window to go 'up' suggests one of the following possibilities:
the violet wire goes into the passenger control and for the window to go up the continuity between pin 1 and 4 of the switch has to be good while you are pushing the up button of it; and
the violet/white wire on pin 4 of the plug which goes to pin 11 of the master control has to be solidly continuous (it passes through a blue disconnect at the dash in front of the the right door frame as well as a blue disconnect on the driver side in front of the door opening on its way to pin 11; both the disconnects are 12-pin and the violet/white wire is on pin 5 in both cases); and when the driver control for the passenger window is in neutral pin 11 has to be connected to pin 10 of that control, the black wire on pin 10 is the actual ground wire connection that you are replacing with your 'jump' to ground. So trace that path to find out where it is going wrong. Of course you don't want to ground that violet/wire when you are trying to lower the passenager window or you will short out the circuit breaker.
Roland