Chrysler Repair: No spark on 1998 Sebring convertible, obd ii scanner, radiator hose

Question
QUESTION: Hi Roland,

I have a 1998 Sebring convertible with about 142,000 miles on it.  It has been relatively troublefree until now.  I

drove it 140 miles last Friday, and it was fine.  I didn't use it over the weekend.  Monday morning I turned the key

and the engine cranked, but didn't start.  You could tell from the sound that it wasn't close at all.  Just cranking

with no indication that it wanted to start.  After reading about others who had the same problem, I started following

the excellent suggestions given in their posts.

When I turn the key, I hear a sound which I believe is the fuel pump.  I checked for spark and got none.  (I removed a

spark plug, put it back in the socket on the wire, grounded it to the intake manifold, and had my wife crank it.  No

spark at all.#

I plugged an OBD II scanner in, and there were no codes.  #By the way, I also tried the on-off-on-off-on and leave on,

but that didn't do anything at all.)

I pulled fuse #1 and put a volt meter across the terminals.  I got around 10v consistently for a full 5 seconds while

cranking.

Now I am at this point:  "See if you are getting 12V compared to engine ground on the dark green/orange wire (pin 1)

of the plug that has 2-pins on it that goes into the distributor, while you are cranking it over."  I'm not clear on

what was said.  Do I put one lead of the volt meter on the pin inside the plug, and the other lead to ground?  Also,

please describe exactly where this plug is.  The distributor is difficult to get to, and the plugs and cables are

cramped in there.  Any suggestions on how to get to it?  I removed the 2 screws on the end of the egr pipe that is

near the distributor, but getting to one of the 2 screws at the other end is difficult with the lower radiator hose

being in the way.  The pipe is rigid and i don't want to bend it too much.  Thanks for your help with this.

Bill

ANSWER: Thanks for the detailed history. Let me check the manual and get back with a follow-up answer in a few minutes.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Roland, thanks for the quick reply.  I forgot to mention earlier that I have the 2.5L engine.

As for the other end of the egr pipe that I mentioned before, I looked again and the lower radiator hose is under the pipe, but access above it is really blocked by what is between the radiator cap and the block.

One other comment.  I have the Chrysler service manual, and on page 8D-18 it explains how to remove and replace the camshaft position sensor.  However, it doesn’t specify whether this is for the 2.4L or 2.5L engine.  I remember reading elsewhere that this part is not replaceable on the 2.5L, and that the distributor must be replaced, so I am assuming this reference is to the 2.4L engine.  Hopefully I won’t have to go that route.

Bill

ANSWER: Hi Bill,
I have two follow-ups to respond to, so I will combine them:
The fact that you have voltage on fuse 1 in the PDC proves that your crank and cam (in the distributor) sensors are OK, and that the spark coil is also getting 12V while you are cranking as it shares the voltage output of fuse 1. So we are left with two possibilies: the spark coil is shorted out, or the spark is not getting out of the distributor due to a crack in the cap or an 'open' rotor. So we still have to get to the distributor:
Here is the procedure to remove the distributor cap:
remove the bolt holding the air intake resonator to the intake maifold
loosen clamps holding air cleaner cover to air cleaner housing
remove PCV make-up air hose from air inlet tube
loosen hose clamp at throttle body
remove air inlet tube, resonator and air cleaner cover
remove EGR tube
remove spark plug cables from distributor cap (note wire numbering and cap numbering)
loosen distributor cap hold down screws and remove cap
note position of rotor and remove rotor
Assembly is the reverse

Check first that the rotor is not open between the center constact and the tip on the rotor arm. Then look over the cap for any cracks. The coil primary winding should show 0.6-0.8 ohms if you measure between pin 1 of the 2-wire socket and pin 6 of the 6-wire socket (both plugs removed). And the secondary winding should read between 12,500 and 18,000 ohms between the coil tower and chassis ground. One of these checks will I hope explain your loss of spark.
Please let me know.
Roland
PS: The cam shaft position sensor is indeed part of the distributor and so it requires a replacement distributor if that sensor fails. One owner did report he was able to find an Asian vendor of just the sensor but this is not easy to get in the States. But because the ASD is still holding while you are cranking it over is functional proof that the sensor is OK, as well as the lack of codes.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi Roland,

I’m glad you explained it thoroughly.  I was under the impression that I had to check the dark green/orange wire on the 2-pin plug on the distributor, but from what you are saying, that is not necessary.

Once I get the egr tube off, I will be able to get to the distributor cap.  Getting to the “egr valve” end of the tube is giving me fits though.  I can get to one of the screws, but the second is inaccessible.  I will let you know what happens.

Bill

Answer
Hi Bill,
The procedure on the tube pg. 25-21 in the manual suggests remove the tcm hold down screws and swinging it up to get better access. Is that helpful? Correct on the dark green/orange, but just in case the wire is 'open', you could check it when you get access to the plug. It should show 12 while the engine is being cranked because it also is connected to fuse 1.
Roland