Chrysler Repair: 99 chrysler cirrus: no start, chrysler cirrus, 4 digit numbers

Question
QUESTION: i have a 99 chrysler cirrus that cranks but wont start. asd & fuel pump relays have tested good. spark plugs & wires are are new, gapped properly and have correct resistance. cap and rotor are also new and test good.

ANSWER: Hi Eddie,
Try using the ignition key to get any fault codes that may be stored in the engine controller. "On-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the odomter window in the cluster to see if the mileage changes to show any 4-digit numbers preceded by a P. Those are fault codes which would be a clue as to why it won't start. Let me know the results and we'll go from there.
Roland
PS Please 'rate' my answer.

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QUESTION: i tried the on-off test several times but no changes in the odometer window occur

Answer
Hi Eddie,
It may be that the pcm on your car will not do the readout via the ignition key but rather only by means of an OBD-II fault code reader plugged into the socket that is under the dash by the steering column. Of course you have to have the key in the 'run' position to get codes out that way. See if you can find someone who has one that you can borrow. I am reluctant to suggest spending money on parts in the hope of finding exactly what the cause is without knowing the fault codes. Going back to basics: do you hear the fuel pump run for about 1 second when you first turn the key to the run position? Have you checked for spark while cranking by pulling a spark plug wire cap off of a plug, putting the tip of an insulated handle screwdriver in the plug cap so that its tip touches the internal wire, and then hold the cap and screwdriver handle with the shaft about 1/4" from the cylinder head while a helper cranks the engine and you observe for a spark to jump across the gap between the shaft and block. If you have spark, and pump runs, then I would think about a mixture issue; if you don't have spark then one of the engine rotation sensors may be bad, but you would be wise the get a code readout to find out which. There is one sensor (called the cam sensor) in the distributor that apparently is not sold separately so if that needs to be replaced it means a rebuilt distributor for a couple of hundred dollars. The crank sensor mounted near the flex plate is in the $50 range so you can see that it is important to get the code readout so as not to throw away money unnecessarily. You are sure that you did the on-off routine in less than 5 seconds, and that you left the key in the run position?
I wish I could tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know of any progress.
Roland