QuestionQUESTION: Hi,
We have a 95 Plymouth Acclaim 3.0 L V-6. Four Door automatic.
Car was broken into and ignition lock cylinder was smashed along with plastic moulding on the column. We replaced it with a cylinder from a parts yard and had a new key made using the vin #. Car started after long period of cranking. After shutting it down, we have been unable to restart. Car turns over(new battery installed) There is no voltage present at either of the two terminals on at the coil primary circuit in the T shaped harness at any time, run or start. We cannot hear the fuel pump hum.
ASD harness has one terminal hot which we believe is straight from the battery. No other power in ASD harness during cranking or run position. I believe we should get 12v from the fused Ignition Switch output. The fuse block does not seem to have a fuse that is marked Ignition. I have several sets of wiring diagrams from Alldata and Haynes but they are generic in nature and do not specically say how it is fused. If it is a fuse link, we have not yet been able to find it.
We can not get codes because Check engine light does not come on at any time so on- off -on-off-on has no effect. There are no other dash lights that are illuminated. The fuse marked ILLUM tests ok with a 12V test lamp. HeadLights are ok. We have Haynes manual and Alldatadiy but are stumped with this one. We have not started to pull the harnesses apart to check for corrosion. Any help advice or encouragement would be greatly appreciated! Thank You,
jr
ANSWER: Hi John,
I would begin at the ignition switch and verify that you have 12v on the red and the pink/black wires which come directly from the battery. Then in the 'run' position check that you have voltage on the dark blue, black/white, and black/orange wires. If you pass that, then check that you have voltage coming to and out of fuses 7,8,9,10,11,18,19,20 in the 'run' position. Let me know what you find. There are 8 fusible links but maybe we can highlight if there is a problem by checking the ignition switch function first.
The verify that the red/white wire at the ASD and pin 3 of the pcm plug has 12v from the battery. That one would power the fuel pump/spark coil/pcm and check engine light and so it is crucial. It comes directly from the battery via a red fusible link
Roland
Thanks Roland, This car belongs to a woman in our church and is parked outside around 20 miles from my house. Its been rather chilly outside for the past few days so troubleshooting is just a little more challenging than normal. I will check out the ignition switch in the next day or so. I can already tell you that the slot in the ASD harness that is connected to the red/ white wire is hot at all times. It is labeled B+ fused , terminal B as per Alldata diagramss. Best Regards, John
Hi John,
Thanks for the rating and further history.
The lack of any lights on the cluster suggests that either fuse 8 is bad, or not getting power from the dark blue wire on pin 2 of the ignition switch plug. The battery input to that section of the switch (pin 7, red) also supports the starter so that must be ok, but check it nonetheless.
Once you get the check engine light it will be easier to figure out what is wrong. In case you aren't aware, if the engine isn't cranking or running you won't get power to the ASD relay output and therefor neither to the fuel pump or the coil. But when you first turn the key to the 'run' position the controller does momentarily close the ASD which you should notice as a hum from the fuel tank, and if you were checking power on the coil it would be seen for a moment on the dark green/red wire (the upright pin of the 'T'). So try and verify all that and let me know what doesn't agree, or if you get the check engine light, what codes you get.
Roland
PS: One other item to check when you have difficult starting is the egr valve, which if stuck ajar can cause a too lean mixture to sustain idle. The valve is bolted into a crossover pipe that branches off the front exhaust manifold and passes toward the rear, and controls the exhaust gas amounts that return to the intake. The valve has to open and close firmly and quickly or the engine will not operate well due to a mixture of fuel and air that will not allow the engine to accelerate or idle well, if the valve is not where it is supposed to be. Often it will get sticky and fail to close all the way, for example which it has to do at idle and when stepping on the gas toward full open throttle. It is controlled by a vacuum operated and electrical control solenoid mounted near by, and those vacuum hoses should be examined to make sure there is no cracked, leaking, or disconnected hose fittings. There is a vacuum operated round fitting on its top, and also a vacuum line going to an electrically operated valve closer to the engine, nearer the throttle body. Look under the round fitting (which is mounted on a saddle with openings for access to view) on the top of the valve where you will see a rod with a slot in it which is the valve stem. Take a straight blade screwdriver, insert it in the slot, and then use the driver to lever the valve up (against spring pressure) and let it return to see if it is dropping back all the way down due to spring's action and closing positively to a firm closed position. Spray WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant on the valve stem to loosen it up in that in and out motion. Then try to start the engine.
PPS:Feel free to rate this answer also!
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QUESTION: Roland,
You were right on when you suggested that I check out the wires on the ignition switch. As I was attempting to remove the column covers on the 95 Plymouth Acclaim, I change the tilt on the steering wheel and the dash warnings lights came on and I heard the fuel pump hum. Car started right up as long as I did not have the wheel in the full up position. Codes were 12 and 55. After I got the cover off, I discovered one of the connector locks had come loose. It allowed the 7 terminal wiring connector to rotate around 15 degrees and some how this affected the electrical output when the wheel was tilted up. We secured the connector ,checked all the wires . red and black/pink were hot . Screwed the covers back in place and it now starts and runs in all positions of the steering wheel. It was your suggestion to check out the wires the caused us to discover the problem. You are the man. I have to confess though that I had started to do some desperate praying. This was the last day of mild winter weather 39 degrees, before the next cold front set in. It is no fun troubleshooting in the cold and snowy weather. thanks again for your insight. It was the best !!!
Many blessings and best regards,
John
AnswerHi John,
That is great news. Thanks for the positive report and I am pleased that the lady has her car back and running. You are a good samaritan.
And thanks for rating my answer and for a nomination to be 'expert of the month'. Feel free to do it again! (There is no limit on the number of times one questioner can nominate an expert under the rules of the site, surprisingly).
Roland
