Chrysler Repair: 99 Stratus: discharges battery quickly, volt ohm meter, infinite ohms


Question
on the way home my battery warning light came on.  All lights in the vehicle started to dim on and off until I got home.  Once ignition was turned off it will not start again, no power period.  Nothing lights up except the brake warning light faintly.  New battery and new starter on this vehicle.  We recharged the battery and it tests fine.  It had blown a 10 amp ignition/fuel pump fuse which we also replaced with no result.  Any ideas that would help us?  Thank you

Answer
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Hi Dave,
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Roland




Hi Dave,
I would focus on the circuits related to the blown fuse, but I don't understhand what you mean by "no result". Did it blow again, or not? If so, then I would check the resistance to ground from the cold side of the fuse's socket using a volt-ohn meter and if that reads short then the fuel pump relay or the dark blue/white wire from the fuse is shorted to ground, and check that dark blue/white wires to the powertrain controller pin 20, and the anti-lock brake controller pin 23 are not shorted to ground as all three draw on fuse #10 in the box under the hood IF that is the fuse that blew. (There is a 20 amp fuse #8 that actually powers the pump and some other items). If the fuse didn't blow again and you tried to start it:
You have a circuit that is shorted to ground. Be sure that all the doors are closed and light switches are off when making these measurement. Do you have a volt-ohm meter? That would be the best tool to identify where to look. Put it across the 2 battery clamps (of course after being disconnected from the battery) and remove fuse 5 from the power box under the hood. See if the reading is at least a few ohm (ideally infinite ohms). If not, then check the fat red lead that goes to the starter motor to see if it might be shorted to metal due to a break in its insulation. Also check the red wire from the alternator that goes to the battery to see if it might be shorted to ground.
If the reading is a few ohms, then remove fuse 5 from the fuse box behind the dash (remove end cap for access). Then assure yourself that the reading is at least a few ohms resistance. Then measure with fuse 5 inserted and verify that it still is at least a few ohms.
If it still shows 0 ohms, then start removing one fuse at a time from the power box under hood until you find one which when removed causes the reading to rise above 0 ohms.
If that test is passed then turn on the ignition switch and check the reading. If that check is not passed (the reading drops to 0 ohms) then you would focus on removing fuses, one at a time from the box behind the dash, until you find the one that causes the reading to rise above 0 ohms and consider what is its purpose and focus on the components that draw on that fuse.
It would be vastly easier if you have the wiring diagrams, but let me know what you learn (identify the fuse number and which box it is in) from this approach as I can relate what you find to the diagrams which I have for your vehicle.
Roland