QuestionQUESTION: Ok so I drove the car about 100 miles it ran fine no over heating really smooth. Came home cooked dinner went to take food to my friend at work and got about 100 yards and it suddenly died. Took out the ignition coil and tested it. All the basics like battery connection etc. have been checked. Replaced the Ignition Control Assembly. Problem still there got a new coil still not getting spark. Has 12v at the coil then no spark. Suggestion?
ANSWER: Hi Suzette,
I had to check both the 4 cyl and the 6 cyl engines because you didn't tell me which you have.
You didn't mention where you are checking for spark (at a plug wire?/at the end of the wire from coil to the distributor cap?/at the spark coil tower?).
It could be the rotor is 'open' or the cap is cracked so check both those. Maybe the timing belt has broken so the distributor shaft isn't even rotating because the cam shaft isn't moving (remove the timing belt cover to check that). But then you wouldn't see 12V at the coil when you are cranking because the ASD would not remain closed unless you had signal from the ingition module in the distributor. So do you have 12V on the coil primary when cranking or for just a second after turning the ignition switch to 'run'.
Those are the possibilities that come to mind.
Roland
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QUESTION: Ok so it is a v6 3.0l sorry I forgot to mention that. There is 12v when key is in on position when cranking over, voltage decreeses and there is no spark on the coil wire. Distributor cap and rotor are in good condition. No foiling at the terminal inside cap and rotor. Hope that is more clear, let me know if it is not and I will try and be more specific.
AND thank you thank you for your help!
ANSWER: Hi Suzette,
Have you tried for fault codes using the igntion key:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time? Then watch the check engine light, which remains 'on', to see it begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause, then repeat the process to be sure of an accurate set of flash counts. Then combine the counts in pairs to form the 2-digit fault code numbers. The last number is always 55 because that means 'end of readout'. Let me know the other numbers or go to www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html for a code listing. We can go from there if you have a relevant code.
Roland
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QUESTION: Ok so I tried the on off to get a code and it would not give me any codes. Found someone with a tester and they hooked it up. The read out on it was the speed intake/out take sensor is the culprit. Does that sound like it could be correct? Or should I keep checking other possiblities?
AnswerHappy New Year, Suzette!
May I ask for your help?
I need your vote of confidence.
I'm in a close race to be recognized as 'Volunteer of the Month' at Allexperts
Purely symbolic, but it means alot to me.
Please click on "Thank/rate the expert" button below/left
It will take you to a page which asks "Would you like to nominate this expert...?"
Click on the "YES"
That's it.
Thanks for taking a moment to help a fellow Chrysler-owner.
Roland
PS:Do it now, the contest closes at 6pm central time.
Hi Suzette,
That doesn't make sense that the transmission in or out speed sensor would in any way cause a no start. When you say that there were no codes did the check engine light work at all (e.g. remain on but didn't flash, or wasn't on at all)? That readout is what we need to go forward. Try it again making sure you do it fast enough to be finished in 5 seconds and of course the ignition switch has to be left in the 'on' position.
Roland
PS: Where did the 'someone' with a tester hook it up? In the engine compartment or in the cabin?Do you recall the code number that they received? There are codes for the engine and there are codes for the transmission, both are 2-digit and they overlap. The engine codes are read in the engine compartment, the transmission are read in the cabin. Please clarify.
