QuestionHello Roland,
I have two vehicles to ask about a 2001 LHS and a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
I have gone back to March ’09 and not found any posts similar to my problem. My 2001 LHS has progressively blown fuse #17 (the 10 amp ABS, AC control). The problem first occurred when the front brakes needed replacement. I replaced the rotors, pads and one of the calipers and the fuse did not blow again for about two months. Last Sunday (9/27) this fuse blew twice in one day while I was out of town in New York (I live in Massachusetts).
Since the heater stays “on” when this fuse is blown I took the car to a local repair shop for diagnosis and repair before setting out to return home. The shop was unable to find the problem (checked wiring, checked ABS computer for codes and found none, checked AC, checked backup lights, road tested vehicle, etc.) or cause the fuse to blow but thirty miles into my return trip it went out again. I replaced it and the replacement lasted about a half hour before it blew. Subsequent replacements blew progressively faster until the replacement now blows immediately upon turning the ignition switch to the “on” position.
The problem does not seem to be related to the AC control, as the fuse will blow even if the AC control is off. I assume, but do not know for sure, that the repair shop in New York also checked the ABS sensors.
I find it hard to believe the on board computer did not contain any error codes (the repair shop claims they were wiped out when the fuse blew) so I am at a loss to figure out what to do next. Any thoughts you have on this subject would be much appreciated.
My second issue is with my Jeep. When I first start it the engine will cough and sputter and almost stall out then run at high rpm. This condition lasts for two or three minutes until the engine warms up and then the car runs fine. I have used fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank with no apparent improvement. Any advice on this problem?
AnswerHi Ed,
I find in the manual that fuse #17 indeed powers the ac/heater panel, the abs controller, the backup lamps, and one more: the daytime running lamp module in the fuse box behind the dash (if so equipped).
About the only way to determine which of these is the culprit would be to unplug each of those devices (at the device) while looking at the resistance to ground on the downstream side of fuse to determine which is shorting to ground. Another approach would be to go to the back side of the under-dash fuse box which has 10 plugs and the body computer. The wires that go to each of tje suspects are:
plug C4 pin 9 is the AC
plug C9 pin 5 is the abs
plug C9 pin 4 is the backup lamps
and the drl is a module on front side of that same box so pulling that could be assessed at the fuse proper (if you pull the DRL, see if the fuse now no longer is shorted to ground). If it isn't the DRL, then if you pull the C4 and C9 plugs on the back side at the same time and independently test the 3 wires you should find one that is grounded. Let me know if you want more details. To access the plugs, you open the lid on the end of the dash (accesses the front of the fuse box) then remove the 2 screws that hold the end of the panel that covers the lower edge of the dash and pull rearward on that panel (it is the panel that also has the decklid release switch) and once that panel is out of the way you can access the 10 plugs. C4 is green and has 12 pins, C9 is orange and has 8 pins.
On the jeep, how about trouble codes? You can get a free readout at an Autozone parts store.
Roland
