Chrysler Repair: 1994 Chrysler 3.5L engine swap: no spark, pulley bolt, crank pulley

Question
My friend & I recently swapped a 3.5 liter engine from a 94 new yorker into a lhs from the same year. The problem is a no start condition(cranks, but no start).....fuel press. is fine but no spark. No dtc's are present. We checked wires at ignition module & only one is showing volt. when attempting to start (green with orange tracer).  The other wires are gray, dark blue with yellow tracer, & red with yellow tracer?  not sure what these wires control. any help would be greatly appreciated.    thanks, matt

Answer
PS:If you try to verify the voltage pulse on the three spark "driver" wires by hand-turning the engine you will want to remove the ASD relay (rear-inboard corner of the power box under the hood) and jump a wire from the rear pin socket to the front pin socket so as to provide power to the circuits necessary to run the system which will otherwise not occur with such a slow cranking of the engine. It is just a temporary by-pass and you should not run the car this way for safety reasons under normal driving situations.

Hi Matt,
When you say "no DTC's are present" I assume that you do at least get a 55 (end of readout) but if not then we have an issue with power supply to the powertrain controller or the controller itself. So let me know about that. If you do have only the 55 then you should also be getting acceptable signals from the cam and crank sensors which are the basis for having spark signals. The wires at the ignition coil pack are green/orange which is the 12V + that goes to each of the three coils in the pack (each coil sparks two cylinders in tandem). The other three wires should be pulsing between 12v and ground in synchrony with the engine rotation as they are attached to the other end of each of the primary coils in the pack. If not, then you would not be getting spark of course. You might not detect that pulsing if your voltmeter can't detect rapid pulsing. You could try turning the engine over by hand with the ignition "on" with a socket on the crank pulley bolt and then the pulsing will be one per revolution on each of those three other wires which would show up on the meter. They are attached to pin 19, 17, and 18 (in the order you listed them) of the powertrain controller. Did you change out the coil pack or is it the one that was there originally, and is so did you have spark before you changed the engine? The coil pack has to be attached cleanly to the metal of the body, of course. And since you have 12V on the dark green/orange while cranking, then it either has to be the coil pack is bad, the wires aren't patent to the powertrain controller, that you don't have good signals from the cam or crank sensor (but no codes and the fact of 12V being on dark green/orange suggests that that is not the case), The resistance between the pin that has the dark green/orange and each of the othe three pins of the coil should be 0.45 to 0.65 ohms and the resistance between the paired high voltage towere should be 7,000 to 15,800 ohms.