QuestionQUESTION: I have seen this problem everywhere but no definitive solution. Out of the blue, my T&C shut down. Won't crank, gauges on, tachometer reads about 600 (engine not running) then drops. If I wait 2 minutes, it will crank and run for about 2 seconds, then it shuts down as though the ignition were turned off. Although everything electrical seems to work including gauges, it won't crank until the key is off for about 2 minutes. then it runs and dies again.
Many people with the same problem have pointed to the instrument cluster. I re-soldered mine and put it back in, and it started right up. But I believe this was just because it took an hour or so to perform the task and put it back together. Two hours after that, same problem. I pulled the instrument cluster out, and tried to start it. Nothing. Tried all the suggested fixes (locking doors, unlocking with keys, etc. but nothing worked. Two hours later, I started it without the instrument cluster in it at all. This could be possible because my van is not equipped with an anti-theft system, I don't know.
I would note that the van was low on gas (65 miles to Empty, but I haven't ever had problem with that before) in case that has somehow triggered a fuel system shutdown event. I don't know, although I've seen this symptom in many forums, no one seems to be able to nail it. Any insight into this? Many thanks, Jawny
ANSWER: Hi Jawny,
I am having trouble with terminology that you use. When you say, 'won't crank', that to me means that the starter motor won't crank over the engine. I suspect you mean it will crank, and 'catch', but then shuts down after 2 seconds. That really does sound like an anti-theft system that hasn't been disarmed. Are you the original owner so that you can be certain it doesn't have a theft system? I assume you have power door locks, correct? How about a remote key fob entry? I don't see any relationship between the instrument cluster and its shutting down after 2 seconds (whether installed or not installed). Have you tried for fault code readout?: turn the ignition key 'on-off-on-off-on and leave on' doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light to see it begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat to be sure of an accurate set of flash counts. The last set of flashes should be 5 in each. Then ask me a question in which you tell me the flash counts in order of appearance. This may tell us something else may be the cause.
Roland
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QUESTION: Roland,
when I say it won't crank, I mean it won't crank. It is as though the starter was not electrically connected. But to clarify; when the problem is happening it WILL crank and run for 2 seconds on the first try, then it shuts down. At that point it WILL NOT crank unless I leave the ignition off for 2-3 minutes. Then it WILL crank and run for 2 seconds and then shut down. This can be repeated indefinitely. If left for a few hours, the problem seems to go away, but it will return erratically (at the worst possible moment).
I am not the original owner and I don't know if it has an anti-theft system, but the alarm has never gone off. It does have power door locks. Regarding the instrument cluster, I have seen countless discussions blaming bad solder joints on the red plug connector that's mounted to the back of the instrument cluster. I checked mine, couldn't see any cracks, but re-soldered them anyway. It didn't seem to make any difference.
The error code I get is 12 42 55, which I believe means (12)the battery has been disconnected -it has. I cleaned the terminals, (42) short or open circuit on ASD, and (55) end of codes. There are three identical relays on the fuse bar under the hood, one of which seems to be the ASD. I swapped all three relays and it didn't seem to make any difference, I still get the error code. BTW, right now, the van is working and I still get the error codes. Of course, I am afraid to drive it, but it starts and runs just fine.
Does this give you any more insight? I've wiggled every wire and connection I can lay my hands on and it doesn't seem to make any difference. Thanks for getting back to me, Jawny
AnswerHi Jawny,
There are a number of possible explanations for a no starter motor as well as for the start and die after 2 seconds. You will need to be ready when it happens to diagnose the circuitry if you are going to nail it.
I do suspect strongly that you do have an anti-theft circuit that is causing the 2 second die off. That it is consistent in its length re-inforces that. The common way to get around it is to treat the vehicle as it doesn't have power locks which are involved with that system and also modify the procedure for securing the van. If you will forgo using the door key locks to close up the van and as well not use the power door locks to 'preset' the door latches as you are leaving it, and instead only use the mechanical push bottons to pre-lock the latches as you leave, then you will avoid ever setting ut the anti-theft system. So then when the starter works and engine starts it will have no basis for shutting off 2 seconds later. This is a 'work around', I know, but lets try that and if it works for the foreseeable future you will have a pretty clear indiaction that there is a theft system on board and can start to try and remedy that. If it starts and dies after 2 seconds regardless of the measures taken to not 'arm' the anti-theft then another reason will have to be found.
On the starter motor, the next time that happens open the power distribution center under the hood and locate the starter motor relay, which is the 5th counting from the rear of the row of 10 relay sockets. Have a helper try the starter key and feel/listen for the click of that relay.
If it doesn't, then try moving the gear shift lever slightly off center of the detent position of P or N to see if it will then click. If not, then either the start position of the ignition switch is flaky or fuse 23 in the same box is intermittent, or the fuse 10 under the dash is intermittent, or there is wire that is loose in those interconnections. Take a close look at the fuses for a possible subtle crack in the wire inside. If it clicks but the starter motor doesn't respond, then either the solenoid switch at that motor or the motor itself is flaky, of the brown wire that connects the relay to the solenoid is flaky. You can test that by removing the starter relay and jumping from the rear pin to the front pin of the relay socket (of course being sure to be in P on N) which should directly connect power from fuse 23 to the solenoid.
When you say you have a 42 always, does that mean you erased the code by disconnecting the battery and it still returns? If so, then either the relay's points are flaky, or fuse 12 in the box under the hood is flaky. The ASD is the rear most on the row of 10 relay sockets in the box under the hood.
Please let me know if you learn more.
Roland
PS:I am working with '95 and '98 manuals, lacking a '96, so let me know if what I have described is not consistent with what you see.
Roland
