Chrysler Repair: Cirrus 1995: no blower motor, 30 amp fuse, fuse box

Question
It started 2 years ago with my blower not working. I did not fix it at that time. Then 5 months ago I lost my timing belt and when they finished that repair ( several hundred miles from my home) I did not notice till nightfall that when I turned on my lights my wipers can on in a single speed. With the lights off they work normal w/ intermittent and low high speed. My lights however are left high beam and right low beam. Doc's have told me I am in danger of a stroke if I overheat so it became important to fix blower. Replaced blow/motor, the switch module under radio, ignition switch and multi function switch. Still no blower. Finally before changing anything else I bought a 12 volt tester. On the back side of where the 30 amp fuse goes in the top left and bottom left I believe are ground. The top right and bottom right I think should be hot with key on. But, only the bottom right lights up my tester. When I look at where the fuse goes in I see burn marks at top. Is there a circuit board in the junction? Any help would be great. 1st blower then lights and wipers. Thank you. Michael

Answer
Hi Michael,
On the blower motor problem, that fuse #1 in the fuse box under the dash is the only 30 amp fuse that is used, and it appears to be mounted horizontally. So I don't follow what you are describing about how it should 'read' or 'glow'. There is a circuit board on the back side of the fuse box, but the manual doesn't show the detail as to its pathways. In any case, that fuse should be powered when the ignition switch is in the 'run' position. If the circuit board is good then when you look on the back side of the box where there is a white 6-pin plug you should find a dark green wire on pin #6 and that is the output of the fuse and it goes to the blower motor. So you could either check the white plug or at the blower motor to assure that the power is reaching the motor. After the current passes thru the motor it goes to the 'resistor block' and from there it goes either directly to ground (producing a high blower speed) or thru one, two, or three resistors to ground (producing the lower fan speeds) the specific pathway being selected by the blower switch. The "resistor block" often blows but when it does so it still will allow you to get the high speed blower only. So if you are getting not even that, and you replaced the switch, and there is 12v on the dark green wire at the blower, then I would believe that you aren't getting the current back to the battery due to a defective ground connection. Have you tried to see if the fan will blow on "high"? The ground point is under the dash on the right side instrument support bracket and leaves the A/C control panel on a black wire at pin 7 of that panel's 7-pin plug.
So that is the circuit. Let me know what you find, and after we fix that we'll tackle the other issues.
Roland