QuestionQUESTION: My 98 t&c ran fine when I got it last year, although the lights beside the a/c controls flashed for the first 20 minutes after starting the van. A couple of months later, it started running VERY roughly, jerking violently, and the gauges started flucuating wildly. One of the indicator lights would come for a second(so quickly that I don't know which light it was). I've had an assortment of guesses to what the problem may be, from the alternator to the crank sensor. What do you think. I have not taken it to a shop and haven't driven it since last summer but want to take the kids on a trip and will need to get it running (affordably) to do so.
ANSWER: Hi Sharon,
The lights on the A/C are probably related to the unit needing to do its self-calibration and self-test of the A/C effectiveness. I'll list how to do that at the end.
The best first approach to analyze what might be the issue with the running of the engine is to get a readout of any faults, coded as 4-digit numbers, stored in the memory of the engine computer. Because it is driveable, you can either go to an Autozone parts store if there is one near you which will do the readout for free, or if not got to an independent garage that should do the readout for $40 or less. Ask in any case for the specific readout numbers, what they mean, what they recommend to do, and for how much. Then write me back and we'll compare notes before you commit to any specific repairs.
Roland
Here is the calibration procedure:
Start the engine,
Set blower on HIGH
Set mode on PANEL
Open all A/C outlets
Set the temperature to Cold
Depress the WASH and REAR Wiper Buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds
The unit will go thru several steps during which the rear wiper and intermittent will be alternatively flashing, and then the A/C and RECIRC will alternatively flash
Acceptable result is rear wiper only flashing. Push rear wiper to exit.
If some other result appears, then some remediation is needed. Let me know what lights are flashing if other than the rear wiper only.
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Roland, the codes I got from AutoZone last summer are as follows, PO203,PO202,PO201,PO204,PO205,PO206,PO351,PO352, PO353. I know the first 6 mean injector circuit open 1-6, and the last 3 mean ignition coil a,b,c primary secondary malfunction. Is the ignition coil the pack that the spark plug wires go to? What do I need to do to fix it? I know my way around a wrench and such, is it something we could do ourselves? Thank you!
AnswerHi Sharon,
Yes, the coil pack is what that spark plug wires are attached to. It would be simple to replace it, but keep track of which wires go to which sockets. Also, inspect the single 4-wire plug and the wire itself to which it is attached as far back to the harness as it is visible, in case it is damaged.
However, before replacing the coil pack, because you also show the injector circuit problems, I would recommend that you measure the voltages on the dark green/orange wire that brings 12V to the spark coil pack (and also the injecors) to be sure that is not 'low' and thus the common cause for all the codes you are getting. Use a digital voltmeter with one lead grounded to the engine and the other measuring for voltage on that wire. You can access the wire by using a straight pin to pierce through the insulation and then attach the meter lead to it. The same wire is accessible at each of the fuel injectors if that is more convenient a location to ID the wire in question. If for some reason you weren't getting 12V on that common wire that feeds both the spark pack and the injectors, that could well be the cause of all your codes/bad running. Do the measurement with the engine running. If that 12V wire were partially shorted that would drop the voltage, impairing the spark and the injector function and producing all the codes.
Roland
