QuestionQUESTION: Key in "start": dashboard lights are on but starter doesn't turn. Key in "on": (wire from solenoid disconnected) +12v applied to starter solenoid, starter turns but engine won't start (no spark to plugs). What next?
ANSWER: Hi John,
Try the ignition key, 'on-off-on-off-on and leave on', doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then see if any 4-digit numbers come up in the odometer window in place of mileage.
Another possibility is that the theft alarm has been set "off" inadvertantly by not being disarmed before you opened the door. That will cause initially the engine to start and shut down after a few seconds. Then after several such unsuccessful attempt it also shuts down the starter and the spark. So what is the status shown by the theft alarm light on the dash? You could try to lock/unlock the front doors using the key which should cancel the "alarmed" state, one at a time, and try starting it after each side is "cleared".
If not, we'll try other things.
Use the "thank/rate" to get back with any results. Tell me which engine you have and anything else about the history of what happened when you first came back to the van to try and start it this time, or anything else unusual in the recent past.
I'll respond later tonight. Tied up with dinner and a short meeting after that.
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hi Roland,
I tried the "on/off.." but got no 4 digit number in the odometer window (mileage is 130,413) It is a 3.3L engine. I bought the car used about 1 year ago and wasn't told it had a car alarm. I have no theft alarm light on the dash. How would I know if it has a factory installed alarm? I installed my own car alarm and tried your suggestion but still have no start. My problem occurred when I drove the car about 7 miles, parked it for 10 mins then got no response when trying to start it. This problem happened only once a few days earlier but the car started when I tried starting immediately again.
The only 2 problems I have had with the car since I bought it has been the starter which I replaced a few weeks ago. I ruled out a defective replacement starter by bypassing the circuit as I stated in my initial question to you. The other problem has been the check engine light (codes indicated bad O2 sensor which I replaced 2 months ago). Check engine light went out intially but would come on and go off on occasion. I never checked codes again. My thought was the connection to the O2 sensor was poor (I had to use a "universal" sensor with unusual plug in connectors). Every time I was going to make a more solid connection to the sensor the check engine light went out for awhile so I never bothered with the repair. Unfortunately, once I disconnected the battery when I removed the solenoid wire for safety to try bypassing the starter I now cleared the codes so I can't tell you what it had stored in memory.
Would a neutral safety switch cause this problem? However, I still get no response when shifting and jiggling shift lever in park and neutral. Also, back up lights do light up when shifted into reverse. I also hear some relays clicking on/off when I turn key into "start" and release. Thanks for you help.
AnswerHi John,
Ask a helper to try the starter while you listen/touch the starter motor relay in the power distribution box under the hood. If the starter motor relay is what you have heard to click is indeed clicking then the problem is either that the contact inside the relay are poor or the brown wire from the relay pin 87 to the solenoid on the motor is not well connected. You could jump a wire from the rear pin (30) to the front pin (87) of the relay socket to test the wire. If that reliably activates the starter then the relay is no good. It it doesn't then the brown wire itself is the issue. You can swap out another relay for the starter relay as a test of the relay itself.
The no spark could very well be related to the fact that the power for oxygen sensor is also the power for the spark coil. So if that 12V dark green/orange wire were shorted to ground you would not get any spark. Fuse #17 in the power distribution box may have been blown which is the one that feed the ASD relay the voltage for the coil and the oxygen sensor. So check that fuse.
Roland
Hi Roland, I bypassed the starter relay (jumped from pin 30 to pin 87) and the starter worked. I bought a new relay ($11), installed it and nothing happened. My fault, I should have read your answer a little better whereby I could have borrowed another relay to test the old one. I began to look around all the other relays and fuses and found something. Roland, we both overlooked the obvious - a 10A fuse (ignition switch) was blown. I replaced it and the car works again with no problem. I had a feeling it probably was something simple but had no idea where to begin (I grew up working on cars in the 70's with no computers, etc. which were very easy to diagnose and fix). I thank you very much for restoring my confidence and pointing me in the right direction. Computer controlled cars aren't impossible to fix, they just require patience and a methodical approach to solving the problem. Thanks again, you saved me from bringing my car to someone who probably would have charged me a lot to replace a 10 cent fuse. John
Hi John,
I see the #10 fuse (10 amp) that powers the starter relay from the ignition switch, which itself on that circuit is powered by fuse #23 in the underhood box. I am embarrassed to not have mentioned that possibility. Thanks for telling me about the solution. Somehow, we often start by looking for something complex with today's vehicles when we should start simple!
Roland
