Chrysler Repair: Check Engine Light STILL on, independent repair, code numbers

Question
Roland, I took my car in to the dealship yesterday because my check engine light was on.  I have a 2003 PT Cruiser GT with 40K miles.  I was told that I need a new Power Steering Pressure switch.  The cost was $60 for the switch, $45 for the Menu Kit (whatever that is) and $163 for labor.  I told them to go ahead and do it.  Picked up my car and got about 1/2 mile down the road and..........my check engine light is back on.  Of course, I'm not too happy.  I paid $275 to fix a problem that I still have.  They also, wanted to charge me $350 for a tune up (plugs & wires) and to replace an S belt.  Then they told me I should have my injection jets & throttle body cleaned and that would be another $350.  These prices seemed high so I told them to just change the switch.  Now I'm afraid that when I go back, they'll tell me it's because I didn't do the other stuff.  Can you tell me why my check engine light would still be on?  Also, I think I should find another dealership for my repairs.  Do you think these prices are high?

Answer
Hi Jackie,
"Good show" in declining their recommendations! It is possible that when they finished the switch job they forgot to cancel the fault code so the light came back on, or the job wasn't done right. In any case don't give them another dime, and if they haven't succeeded in keeping the light off then they either mis-diagnosed or mis-repaired your problem. Insist that the problem be solved with no further charge to you.
The light goes on when the engine or transmission computer recognizes a problem. The codes are numerous and very specific. So they know what the problem was. Don't let them snow you. Ask for your money back if they claim something else is needed. You agreed to a repair based upon their diagnosis of the light problem.
I would get an independent code readout (if needed or in the future) at an Autozone parts store (for free) or an independent repair shop for about $40. Then let me know the 4-digit fault code numbers and we can go from there with what to do.
The other recommended services are no doubt "make work" ploys. The car has too few miles to need any of that. The only one to look at, yourself, is the serpentine belt question which is what drives all the accessory devices on the front of the engine. Just inspect it to see if you see any obvious shredding of the surface fabric or cracks in the rubber surface. I doubt it could need replacement.
Roland
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