QuestionQUESTION: hi, working on a 98 concorde with the factory security and transponder system, problem, car has many times been to dealer and others car stops running that means crancks but dont start, codes in reader are, (1)asd relay (2)fuel pump relay. now after i played with it car refuses to even crank. i jumped the starter at relay and lit up the coils at relay and triggered the fuel pump at relay, all at the same time, no start. do you think it is the transponder system malfunk, oh also tried both keys and put batt charger on all night with key in on poss to try to reprogram. think u can help.
ANSWER: Hi Doug,
Start with the fuses:
Fuse G (40 amp) in the box under the hood powers the starter motor relay actuation coil, the starter solenoid, and the fuel pump motor. The actuation coil of the fuel pump relay is powered by fuse 13 (in the dash) which also powers the engine computer. Check that there is 12V on that fuse when the key is in the "run" position (your problem could be the ignition switchm which this will verify).
The ASD relay is powered by fuse N (30 amp) in the engine compartment box. Once you can get it to crank, if it won't start I would see if the fuel pump will run (hum) for a second when you turn the ignition key to the run position or not, which is the way it is supposed to respond. If so, then I would pull a plug and ground its shell on the cylinder head while a helper cranks the engine to see if you get spark for 5 seconds of cranking or not. Then if you have spark I would disconnect the battery for a few minutes, then reconnect and try to start it and re-read for codes if you have a reader. Let me know what you learn from trying all the above and we can go on from there. Also, let me know which engine you have in the car.
Use the "thank/rate" tab below to get back to me without having to wait for me to be 'available' to take a question. There is a section for comments.
I don't think your no start has anything to do with the remote keyless entry or the theft system. If that is acting up the symptom will be that the engine will start but then die in a couple of seconds. That year's vehicle is not supposed to have a smart key immobilizer so I don't think the ignition key has anything to do with it. Let me know if you think otherwise.
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: yes all fuses are ok, pump on off(hum)ok, but yes this car has sentry key, module sensor around key cylinder, and stop cranking after multi attempts to start. prior to it was cranking and then just dying. but i guess after multi attempts it goes into lockout until you use proper key. but this car ran on both keys fine, until inter started leaving cust stranded.
AnswerYou will recall that we exchanged q and a's earlier this month about your car. I am competing to be recognized as 'expert of the month' for November, and the voting ends Sunday afternoon. If you would consider giving me a vote, that would be most appreciated. Use the "Thank/rate" tab below where you will see "nomination?" and then change the 'no' to a 'yes' to give me that support. I hope things are well with you and your vehicle.
Roland
What is the VTSS indicator LED doing after you turn the ignition to the "run" position? If the light comes on for 3 seconds, that is simply the bulb test. Then it goes off for a second. If nothing further, then the SKIM is OK. If it starts flashing and makes a single audible tone then there is something wrong with the key, the skim interface or the rest of system relative to that key. It would have to be reprogrammed after verifying that the the power and ground to the SKIM are good. You would need a DRB III and the body computer manual to do a diagnosis and reprogramming. So take a look at the LED. Check fuses 14 and 19 in the dash junction block to begin, then verify that you have 12V all the time on pin 6 at the SKIM and when in the run position at pin 4 of the SKIM. Pin 2 of the SKIM should be connected to pin 12 if the gray plug of the BCM, and pin 5 of the SKIM should be grounded.
Roland
