Chrysler Repair: security system not allowing me to start van, locking all the doors, information sharing system

Question
Roland,
You sound very knowledgeable in this area as I've read and I'm hoping you have and answer to my problem. I have a 99 Chrysler T&C Limited.  It started a few months ago as I was driving, I noticed my gauges go out and then back on again.  This happened a few times before one day when I went to start the van and I couldn't get it going.  It started 4 or 5 times but died out and then it did nothing at all.  It ended up starting again after I had left it and came back.  I did lock it and then unlock it.  I feel there is something wrong with the anit theft system.  I've talked to some mechanics and have tried different things like, not locking the van so I'm not engaging the security system.  It still sometimes won't start with the same sequence as mentioned.  I've been told it could be the lock in my door but I haven't been able to unlock it and have it work.  I try unlocking and locking all the doors with and without the key but nothing seems to be the "one" thing that gets it to work again. My gauges still go off and on while driving and the alarm light is illuminated along with the ABS light. I was also told that the alarm system cannot be disengaged.  What do you think is the problem?  I was also told my battery could have a bad cell in it and we changed that to no avail.

Answer
Hi Maria,
It appears that you have tried most of the tricks. One other emergency anti-theft system "reset" approach would be to try removing the ignition off draw fuse (IOD) which is in the rear corner of the power distribution box that is under the hood (it is fuse #28). Take it out for maybe 20 minutes or so and then put it back and try to restart the van.
The chronic starting problem may be related to the observation of the gauges going out as those are dependent upon a connection to the digital data information sharing system (or "bus"). One common report about the vans is that there is a tendency for the circuit board to develop either a crack or simply a poor solder joint at the connection between the wiring harness plug socket of the board and the board itself. Some owners notice that if they tap the top of the dash pad above the cluster that the gauges will come back into play. My approach would be, if that seems to be the behavior, to remove the cluster and use a soldering pencil to reheat the joints between each of the pins on the plug socket and the board so as to assure a tight electrical connection on all.
To remove the cluster you remove the top steering column cover. Then slightly lift the large bezel that covers the cluster, remove the left end cap of the dash, remove the screw at the left end of the cluster bezel and headlamp switch. Then remove the screws that hold the bezel to the instrument panel from each side of the steering column. Then disconnect clip holding cluster bezel to instrument panel from above right vent louver. Then the bezel should separate. Then remove plugs from back and the cluster and bezel will come out. Then you can remove the printed circuit board from the cluster after removing the back panel and removing the electrical connect at the middle of the bottom edge, and remove the screws holding wire connector insulator to the cluster shell and circuit board. Remove the screws holding the circuit board to the shell and the board will come off. Then you can do the solder reheating process on the plug pins.
Otherwise, the next step would be to have a fault code readout done at an Autozone parts store for free or a lower cost readout at an independent shop to see whether one of the components that share the bus system is causing the problem. Ask for the fault code number(s), what they mean, what they propose to do, and how much? Then write back and we'll compare that to the manual.
Roland