QuestionQUESTION: My boyfriend bought this car from a friend who just had a new transmission put in. The car drove fine for him, but he had to stop driving it from losing his liscense. Every week for a month or three he would start it up and it was fine. One time he tried to start it and when he turned the key nothing happened. He sold the car to my boyfriend who is trying to fix it. He has tried a number of fixes that just do not seem to be the problem. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. My boyfriend is not home now for me to ask him what it was he did try for fixes, but if you reply, I will speak to him and we will respond to any questions that may help you help us. Thank you for your time.
ANSWER: Hi Jennifer,
If you mean that the starter motor won't turn over the engine, then you need to consider the state of the battery charge. Once you believe it is charged sufficiently, then the possibility for non starter action would be: ignition switch, park/neutral safety switch, starter relay, and finally the starter motor itself. Also the wires connecting the all these parts would need to be cleanly connected and tight. So consider these issues and tell me more. There are ways to test all these ideas.
Roland
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QUESTION: I had my boyfriend write down the problem in his words, this may make it a bit easer for you to help us:
1988 Chrysler New Yorker 3.0 with fully charged battery. When I jump the starter from selinoid to starter, it turns over, but no spark. The lights come on full power, but when you turn the key nothing happens, no clicking, no dimming. Already replaced park neutral saftey, starter relay, and the ignition switch, still nothing when you turn the key. I got a steering wheel puller and lock plate remover. Now I can't get the blinker stuff out of the way.I was thinking that when you turn the key to start it, the actual key lock system was bad, but cant find any actual large schematic view of this part of my car anywhere. But could the lock set be the problem? Maybe the distributor? Crank shaft sensor?
Thank you so much for your help and for your time.
ANSWER: Hi Jennifer,
See if, when you have the igntion switch in the "run" position, do you have 12V on fuses 7, 8, 18, 19, 20. And then check if 12V shows up at the starter relay socket on the yellow wire (pin 1).
Let me know if you get all that. If not, then I would check the red wire coming into the ignition switch at pin B1 which is the source for all those voltages IF the switch is good. If you don't have 12V on the red wire, then one of the fusible links near the battery (red) is blown. If you have 12V at the ignition switch then the switch is no good. If you get voltage at all the fuses and the starter relay we have to think some more.
Roland
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QUESTION: Well, I got the car to start by finding a corroded wire under the hood that I did not notice the first time I checked. I am trying to finish putting the tilt stearing wheel back on, but I do not know how to put it back together so that the gear selector shows the correct position. Also the dimmer switch rod seems to have an extra peice that I do not know how to put back on. Ive checked in all the car books an can not find any info on the blinker rod. Any more help would be greatly appreciated.
AnswerHi Jennifer,
I'm glad you found the wire problem. The best thing I can do is to offer to send you by U.S. mail about 9 pages from the '89 shop manual which I believe is identical to your '88. If you would be so kind as to send me back three 41-cant stamps to cover my costs that would be appreciated. Just give me your postal mailing address in the comments section of the "thank and rate" option.
Roland
