Chrysler Repair: intrepid wont run or idle, will start sumtimes, wd 40, cam sensor

Question
This is a problem i've had with the car since I received it. The problem is the car cranks and wants to run but won't. I replaced the camshaft posistion sensor,ECM,Crank sensor, distributor, plugs,wires,temp sensor,EGR (used). When I got the car it ran great, Cherry baby! till I took it to the car wash and sprayed down the engine bay with engine degreaser. The car stalled but started after. I started noticing I had a bad misfire so I replaced the plugs, wires and distributor to be safe.  During all of this I received ALOT of trouble codes therfore replacing what was called for. I still had the same problem. Many people told me to replace the ECU so I did. after that it ran till I touched the gas pedal and the engine immediately stumbles still and dies out completely. I checked practically all the wiring and checked continuity on crank sensor, cam sensor, feul injectors etc... all checked clean. also the ECU does not throw any codes. Im assuming it would have to be still and electrical problem such as important relays,fuses, or anything not in line with sensors etc. today I decided to check the injectors again out of lost hope, I loosened the intake manifold a little bit and tryed starting the engine to check to make sure i was properly circulating oxygen threw the throttle body turned the key and it immediately started but couldnt control idle, im assuming the car couldnt properly regulate the mixture of over compensated air flow with fuel. when i tighten the manifold back down and start the car I get the same problem, leading me to believe for sure I have a airfeul management issue or EGR? a couple sensors i pulled myself from junkyards near me. I tested continuity for defective parts. the only part that cant be checked is mechanical the EGR. I seen a post about ways to check the EGR by checking the valve stem for sticky spots I just tried lubbing it up with WD-40 and replaced the part and little to no improvement. Im sure that doesnt necessarily mean that the part isnt still defective. I'm very frustrated and very confused as well please help me troubleshoot this problem so i can get back on the road again. if you need additional support to answer please feel free to ask. thankyou very much James

Answer
Hi James,
It is a problem when there are no codes. It does appear to be a mixture issue. I would take a look at the throttle position sensor by measuring the resistance between the center pin and either outside pin. The resistance should vary smoothly with no discontinuities as you open the throttle valve. I would also remove the large air intake hose to the throttle body and clean the throttle plate on both sides and also you will notice a small hole on the side of the throat which should also be cleaned with solvent on a q-tip. I would also remove the egr and notice whether it is indeed closed tight. As long as that is the case, that should not present a problem when you start the car. It becomes a problem after you have been running the car and you slow down and the egr sticks open (ajar) in which case the mixture is too lean to sustain an idle or to restart the car. So do verify that the passage way for the exhaust gas is indeed closed. Finally I would take a look at the manifold absolute pressure sensor. That can fail, or I should say become inaccurate, so much so as to make for a too lean mixture, but not so badly as to be detected as a faulty item, thus no code.One other possibility is the engine coolant sensor which could also be off-value due to a too low resistance. It should read at least 7000 ohms when the engine is cold. It is located next to the thermostat housing  and has a two wire plug. So remove the plug and see what it reads.
I can't think of any other items that would cause what you describe.
Let me know, please, if you find something interesting.
Roland