QuestionHi there – I’ve been having some issues – hopefully you can help…
Some basic info about my car:
1. 1996 Chrysler Cirrus LX – V6 2.5L
2. 205K
3. Automatic Transmission
4. 2 wheel drive
5. no Strange sounds
6. minor oil leaks
7. Recently had full tune up and air con pump changed.
For about a month it has been stuttering (very slightly) when I drove it (especially on the highway.
My car stalled in the middle of the road a week ago. Turned over but wouldn’t start. Checked code – 55 – nothing. Checked everything else – there was no spark. Had it towed to a mechanic who was refered to me.
The mechanic I dropped it to called the next day and told me that it took 7 hours to diagnose. He had a computer scope which he used later to show me what was wrong (it took him 10 mins to set it up). He had changed the crank sensor and now it started but would shut off after 3 seconds. He then showed the scope which said ‘cam sensor – no’. I was then told that I had to replace entire distributor. He also said that it was a 1.5 hour service. He called me the next day – apparently the new part was installed and didn’t work, so he ordered another. I went by at the end of the day (20 mins before closing) to see what was happening – he said that the part was coming from out of town – it would be there next morning. Got a call the next morning, 5 mins after they opened, and was told that it was fixed. Went by, said he drove it around for 20 mins. So I paid and went to sit in my car, but the remote would not work (2 week old battery and reprogrammed 6 months earlier). I tried to open it with the key and the alarm/horn went off. I never had this feature set up – I had used the key several times in the past (finicky remote) and this had never happened. So, I tried to turn the key over to see if that would stop the alarm, but it didn’t work. Also, the car did same thing as before – started but turned off after 3 seconds. I went back in and the mechanic told he would contact Chrysler.
I called the next day – the mechanic said Chrysler techs came by with some device and couldn’t fix it - they said it needs some new PCM..? He said he will eat cost if it is his doing, but I would have to pay if not??? Also said I would have to wait another week for the part to come in!!
I have several questions – I know it is a bit detailed, but it will really help to not only fix the problem, but sort out whether I’ve been conned by a bad mechanic (should I have my car taken to another mechanic?) or determine that he has done everything correctly…
1. Once it is determined that there is no spark (which it took my dad about 30 seconds to figure out), how long would it take a normal mechanic with a computer scope to determine what is wrong? Even without one..?
2. Does the method of procedure done here make sense (changed crank sensor, then determined cam sensor no good, then replaced whole distributor, now alarm issue as result..?) - Is it plausible for all of these things to be defective all at the same time..?
3. Do these original symptoms seem like they have anything to do with the alarm? The reason I ask is, once the alarm went off, suddenly the car did the same thing again – started but shut off after a few seconds. Did it make sense to change the entire distributor?
4. Does this alarm issue seem to be something that would have been caused by the car battery being unplugged for a long time..? If so, what would be a common fix?
5. I spoke with the Chrysler dealership repair techs and they said that all I would have to do about the alarm issue bring it to them and they could use their device to reprogram/reset it. Is this PCM issue realistic (I can’t help but feel that this is another ploy to get more money out of me).
My apologies if this is too much - as you can see I have a lot to deal with - any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated...
Thanks... :)
AnswerHi Ahab,
Thanks for the detailed history. I would suspect that the vehicle theft security system is what is shutting down the engine because 'running for about 3 seconds' is exactly what happens when the alarm is triggered.
Your vehicle evidentally has such a system but you may not have been familiar with it. It can be set either by locking the doors before exiting using the power door lock switch or by locking the door with a key. You can by-pass the system by only using the interior door push button (mechanical) locks. If the system is armed then the normal way to disarm it is to open the door with the key or with a remote entry fob that is programmed to be recognized.
The possible reason why this has happened is that while the mechanic had the car it was decided to secure the car by the key or the power door lock switch, thus setting the alarm. What may have happened is that the electrical connection between the driver's side door lock and the body control module (which is where the theft system hardware is located) fatigued and so the next time the door was opened with the key the theft system was not successfully disarmed. One possible solution now is to use the key to lock and unlock the passenger side door which also has a arm/disarm switch as part of its lock. If that does the trick then your problem is solved. Just try to avoid arming the system in the future by securing the vehicle via the push button locks.
I suspect that the "no cam sensor" code was really saying that there was no cam signal and that could very well be a symptom of the then alarmed state of the security system. So that expensive distributor purchase may have been totally unnecessary, which is what you asked me about.
If what I am thinking is correct, and that you will get the engine to run by now successfully disarming it, then I would suggest that the old distributor be put back in and see it the engine doesn't indeed work fine. It it does, then the mechanic would be responsible for buying the unnecessary distributor and refunding the money to you. And it would mean that the only thing wrong was the crank sensor. So you should only pay for that item to be replaced (which is quick and also not a very expensive part). I would negotiate a much reduced labor charge than 7 hours to diagnose a failed crank sensor. That is ridiculous for a trained mechanic to take that long.
So try this approach and see if I am correct or not.
Disconnecting the battery and later reconnecting it is also a way that an armed security system will think a theft is in progress and set off the alarmed condition. But again try to lock/unlock either/both front door to cancel the alarmed state.
Unfortunately there is no simple way to disconnect the theft system entirely. Rather you have to avoid setting the alarm into the armed state.
I could be wrong, so don't insist that I am infallible. But that is what I think has gone on.
Roland
