QuestionThanks again for the quick and detailed reply.
I don't know why the dealerships recommends it every 30K miles or 2 years; is it a way to make business? Sometimes, I feel that the recommnded service inervals for many preventive maintenance services are too conservative; like why should I change double platinum plugs every 2 years?
From the paperwork that I got with this van, it has been to dealership service department at 827miles, 4536m, 11500m, 25900m, 36000m and 56500miles. However, I don't have details of what services were performed. I beleive I should be safe to assume that transmission service was performed atleast one (at 25K or 36K). Then I can wait for another 14K miles(assuming it was done at 25K-conservative) for transmission service. In addition, there is no problem with transmission, no shudder, smooth shifting etc.
Thanks again for your help!!!
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I have two questions from your answer:
1) I am not sure if I got the transmission oil change interval right. Is it every 30000miles or at 30000 and then at 120000miles?
2) About dropping the pan twice: I took out 4 quarts first time and then what do I need to do for second time? Should I just temporarily put the pan back and start the engine quickly and shifts between gears to bring the other 4 quarts in the pan(does not seem right to me)?
Thanks for your quick response and help!
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Dodge Grand Caravan LE 1999 3.3L, 4speed Transmission, 101K miles.
I just bought this van. I don't know when the last owner changed the transmission oil/filter. I checked through dip stick and the oil looks fine. What is optimum transmission oil change period for this van(the ambient temperature frequently touches 110-120F)?
Also, I will change the transmission oil/filter myself if necessary? I have Haynes manual; it does not talk about in detail about changing the filter; just tells to remove the filter by removing the bolts and replace it. Is there any special precaution in changing the filter?
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Hi Shafique,
The routine change of fluid is at 30,000 and 120,000 miles by either the suction or the pan drop method. Recognize that less that half the fluid will be changed this way (4 quarts out of 9 quarts capacity) but if the fluid seems good, doesn't smell burnt, doesn't feel gritty, that should be acceptable. If the oil has high mileage/discolored/feels grimy, the trans shifts poorly, or delays engagement then the filter also should be changed*. Warm up the trans before dropping the pan. (Drive 10 miles) Collect the 4 qts of fluid. Clean sealant from the mating surface; clean pan, magnet. Other than inspecting the O-ring on the filter (replace if necessary) there are no other complexities in that process. Of course you have to drop the pan to change the filter. Use only ATF +3 Mopar type 7176 fluid, that is very important. Use RTV sealant (1/8" bead around the mounting flange and the underside of the attaching bolts. Tighter to 14 foot-pounds of torque.
Add 4 qts fluid. Then warm up for 1 minute, cycle thru the gear shift positions, and check the fluid level. Add to bring to within 1/8" if Add mark. Then drive 10 miles and recheck level.
Roland
*Garages will have a power flush machine to totally change the fluid if warranted, but note that it is expensive stuff so you may not want to change it all out unless it is as described above for the filter change. It appears that if you don't do a power flush but are concerned about the fluid, you drop the pan twice, thus using 8 quarts for the process.
This all is from the '98 Chrysler van shop manual.
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Hi Shafique,
The manual speaks of the first change of a new vehicle occuring at 30,000 miles and the second, 90,000 miles further at a total of 120,000 miles. After that I would infer every 90,000 miles (e.g.210,000 miles etc.) the rationale for the early first change is probably to remove any manufacturing debris.
The change process has two choices. For normal a situation where the existing oil appears clean, not discolored, not grimy when rubbed between the fingers, where trans is shifting normally and engaging promptly when shifted from Park or Neutral into gear, and doesn't shudder when it shifts: a single pan drop and replacement with 4 qts of fluid with subsequent verification of level on dipstick after being warmed up and then being driven 10 miles and inspection for any leaks and proper fluid level. I see no reason not to do a filter change if you have no evidence that the filter has ever been changed.
The other option is for when one of the above symtoms is present and essentially is a double dump of the pan, refiling it twice, once after each dump and of course driving it between the first and second dump to get it mixed, and replacing the filter after the second dump. The idea there is to further dilute the old fluid with new fluid. But I would wonder if all that really is worth it because you would still have about 2 quarts of the original fluid mixed in with then new stuff, and twice the labor etc.
There is an alternative, I understand, that involves a machine that exchanges all the fluid with a pump in one pass
and presumably requires that 9 or a little more quarts be used in a single change out process. But you would have to find some shop that has such a changer and pay them to do it right. But again be absolutely certain that they use the Chrysler brand fluid (ask for the empty containers as proof) as failure to do so appears to open the door to the self-destruction of the trans.
So I know that because this is a new vehicle for you that you want to do right by it, but don't go overboard on this.
If the trans is working good and there are none of the symptoms, but because you don't have any proof of any change since new, then I would advise a single dump with filter change.
Roland
AnswerThe 30,000 mile change frequency only applies to use always under: extremely dusty conditions or 50% of the time operated at above 90F, prolonged stop and go or idling, frequent short trips, police or taxi usage. Otherwise as stated is ok. The spark plugs are supposed to be changed at 100,000 miles.
You are welcome!
Roland
