Chrysler Repair: Sebring Touring 2004 hesitation/stalls, oil pressure switch, exhaust gas recirculation valve

Question
Sebring within last 5 months hesitating and stalling.  Usually from slow speed or from idle state will hestitate, jump and stall.  Has stalled handful of times on highway on deaccelartion.  Stalls out within last month every time we make a turn, left or right.  Transmission service done, new oil pressure switch given, oil change done last month and water pump replaced.  All these things done and my oil light still comes on and the car still hesitates and stalls.  It would be helpful if i could get some advice on what could be possibly causing this problem, so i can address this problem accordingly.  
Thanks for your time
Brianna

Answer
Hi Brianna,
There are two things to try. One is to get a fault code readout from the engine controller. I am not an expert in the post-2000 cars as I explain on my prospectus statement but I believe that if you turn the ignition key:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapased time that you may see some sort of message in the odometer window of the speedometer unit. It might be 4-digit numbers, each preceeded by a "P". If not, then you might try a parts store such as Autozone where they will ofter do a readout with a plug-in reader to get the fault codes. If you get any codes, get the number, ask what they mean, and how to fix. Then write back with the info and we can compare what you were told with the manual. If you write back be sure to tell me the engine that you have in the car.
The other possibility for what you are experiencing is an exhaust gas recirculation valve (egr valve) that is sticky in its opening/closing function and that it is sticking ajar at idle speed or when deccelerating. I can be more specific when you tell me which engine, but in general you can look at the exhaust manifold(s) of your engine for a small pipe that heads off toward the air intake (throttle body) for the engine and along that pipe you will find a valve with a round body and a round top separated by an open flange inside of which there is a rod. That rod is the valve stem and it has a circumferential slot. You can move the rod back and forth via a screw driver tip inserted in the slot, in one direction against spring resistance, and if the valve doesn't move via the spring to a dead stop (closed) then it is hanging up ajar. You can spray some penetrating oil or WD-40 on the stem where it enters the valve body to get rid of the sticky hangup. The the valve will close positively when you are idling or slowing down which would get rid of the stalling out. This in not guaranteed, but it is a common cause of stalling at idle or decceleration.
Roland