QuestionMy question is two fold. I,ve been told to replace the spark plugs on the rear of the engine, the intake manifold must be removed. Is this correct? Also a very severe noise and vibration coming from front end. At first I though it was tranny, but i've been told right side half shaft and cv joint. The noise is continuous in or out of gear, except when turning steering wheel to the right for a moment while traveling in a straight line.
AnswerHi Steve,
Are you aware that the recommended frequency of spark plug changing on that engine is once every 100,000 miles? I have the procedure for changing the plugs on the back set of cylinders, but it ain't no fun! Be aware that there are 13 steps in the removal process so don't undertake this unless you have reached about 100,000 miles since the last change or you suspect there is something wrong with your plugs. The plug type is RC10PYP4 (double platinum) which requires care to avoid damage when you measure the gap. You will want to use these plugs so you don't have to change them again for another 100,000 miles!
Here are the steps for removing and replacing the plugs on cyl 1,3,and 5 of the 2.5L V-6:
Disconnect negative cable from auxiliary jumper terminal (I believe this is the ground wire tied to the strut tower on the driver's (left) side of the car).
Unplug the connectors from the MAP sensor and (just to its front) the intake air temp sensor.
Remove the plenum support bracket bolt located rearward of the MAP sensor
Remove the bolt holding the air inlet resonator (the thing with words "multi-point injection") to the intake plenum.
Loosen throttle body air inlet hose clamp
Release snaps holding air cleaner housing cover housing
Remove air cleaner cover and inlet hoses from the engine
Unplug throttle position sensor and idle air control motor connectors.
Pry retainer tab back on throttle cable and slide cable out of bracket. Remove cable from throttle lever.
Slide Speed control cable out of bracket, if equipped. Remove cable from throttle lever.
Remove EGR tube from intake plenum.
Remove plenum support bracket bolt located rearward of EGR tube
Remove bolts holding upper intake plenum and remove plenum
Always remove the ignition cable by grasping at the spark plug boot turning the boot 1/2 turn and pulling straight back in a steady motion
Prior to removing the spark plug spray compressed air around the spark plug hole and the area around the spark plug
Remove the spark plug using a quality spark plug socket with a rubber foam insert
Inspect spark plug condition.
To avoid cross-threading start the plug into the cylinder head by hand
Tighten the spark plugs to 20 ft-lbs (28 N-m)
Install ignition cables over spark plugs
Install new gasket and position upper intake plenum. Tighten blots to 13 ft-lbs (18 N-m)
Install bolts at plenum support brackets (Same torque as above)
Install EGR tube at plenum. Tighten EGR tube to intake manifold plenum screws to 8 ft-lbs (11 N-m)
Install throttle and speed control (if equipped) cables
Attach electrical connectors to sensors.
Install air inlet tube clamp to to 25+/- 5 inch pounds (3 +/- 1 N-m)
Connect negative terminal to auxiliary jumper terminal.
There are some figures that show the parts which might be helpful but I don't have a document scanner. If you want the xerox copy of the pages let me know along with a postal address and I'll mail them to you. Best of luck with the project.
On the noise/vibration, because it is continuous and occurs when going straight I suspect it is the inner cv ("tripod") joint on either the left or right half-shaft. You can rebuild this yourself or buy an whole new half-shaft and you can do-it-yourself with the tools and instructions. Again let me know if you want the pages from the manual. It will cost me about 8 cents per page plug postage to get these to you. You can send me postage stamps back to cover the costs after you get them.
