Questioni had the check engine light come on and took it to the dealer to check the code. It was $95! Is there another way to check the codes myself? They came up with the EGR valve needing to be replaced and wanted approximately $300 to repair this. Is this something that I could do myself?
Thank you for your time, this is a great help.
AnswerHi Derek,
That surely was a rip-off, but that can happen at dealerships.
You can get the engine codes yourself in your vehicle. Just turn the ignition key:"on-off-on-off-on and leave it on, doing this in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. the check engine light will remain illuminated, but then begin to flash, pause, flash, pause,etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat to verify you have counts correctly. Then group the numbers in pairs in the order that they appeared to form the two-digit fault codes. You can get a translation of the codes at:
www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
Or you can write me back with the code numbers.
As to the egr, I would not 'buy' into replacing the valve, which sounds like another make work job for the dealer. The chances are more likely that the valve stem is just cruddy and sticking ajar. I assume you have the 2.5L V-6 engine. Here is what I told another person with the engine who was having an egr problem as to what to do first:
"The code is saying that when the engine control module tests the egr it doesn't seem to function, which usually means the EGR valve is stuck, most likely ajar. So you need to try and get it freed up and moving again so that it will be closed when the engine is shut down, otherwise it will be difficult to start and to idle.
The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle. Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't start, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too crudy and corroded inside, is the next step to getting the engine to start."
So good luck on checking this out yourself.
Roland
