Chrysler Repair: 1997 Chrysler Concorde Heater/AC Blower, 1997 chrysler concorde, automatic temperature control


Question
Roland,  
  I haved browsed your previous answers and found similar problems but nothing specific for a 97 Concorde.  But like many other writers, I have had a history of fan/blower problems.  First, it is a automatic temperature control unit. Historically, the first problem to surface was that the blower would only work on high.  We would manipulate by physically removing or inserting the fuse.  
 Lately, it has quit working completely.  Checked fuse by drivers side fuse compartment which seems to be OK.  Is there a second fuse that is connected that should be checked?  Does the fuse box in the engine compartment have any related fuses?
 What is the cheapest way out of this as my daughter (who drives the car) is a poor college student and her father is also poor because he is putting his daughter through college:)  In addition, we live in Minnesota and winter approacheth.  

Answer
Hi Matt,
The power to the blower comes from a 25 amp fuse under the dash that may be labelled C1 and has socket numbers 42 and 41 on either end of the fuse. That fuse in turn gets its power from the ignition switch which is supplied from 40 amp fuse J in the power box under the hood. You could check for the presence of 12v on the underdash fuse when the ignition switch is in the run position. If it is there, then I suspect that the blower motor has now failed. To check it out:
remove the silencer duct on the right underpanel of the dash
you will find a rectangular metal fitting retained by screws in an air duct on the right side of the heater/ac distribution housing with a couple of electrical plugs (one simple 2-wire goes to the blower motor nearby, one 3-wire:dark green, black,red/light green). Jump 12v from fuse C1 or from the battery to either of the wires on the 2-wire plug and jump a ground return from the other wire of the plug to a shiney metal surface nearby or to the - post of the battery. The blower should  operate if it is good. If it does, then remove the screws that hold the rectangular metal fitting and you will see a solid state device called the blower module with a couple of transistors. That is the device that creates the 14 different voltages for the blower motor. You probably have to replace it (try a d-i-y wrecking yard) or if the transistors are numbered and/or you have electronics trouble shooting capability try to service the module.
So start with the fuses, then try to jump the fan motor, and finally if both those are good replace/repair the module.
Let me know if you run into trouble. I hear that your winters may soon be like summers if we don't cut back on C02 emissions.
Roland