QuestionThanks for the excellent steps to take. Will check out as soon as I have a day off. Could you point me in the right direction as to the possible location of the fuse link in case that appears to be the problem?
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Followup To
Question -
I have a 1994 Sundance and the fan for the heater and A/c has always
worked fine. The other day I switched from reg. A/C to Max Air and about
5 seconds later the fan just stopped blowing on all speeds. The fan
made no unusual noise. I checked the 10 amp fan fuse and it looks OK.
Is there some other fuse beside the fuse panel or a relay somewhere?
Answer -
Hi Bob,
First let me ask are you sure that you checked the correct fuse? The fan fuse is 30 amps and is located in position #7.
There is another "fuse" that supplies the fuse socket, called a fusible link, located in the engine compartment. The easiest way to check would be to test for voltage with a meter or glow light at the pins of the #7 fuse socket; one of them should be "hot" whem you have the ignition switch in the run position if the fusible link is o.k.
If the voltage supply checks out, then the other possibilities are the control switch. the fan motor, or the the fan resistor block (causes the different voltages for the fan speeds). The block is the most likely culprit, and it is located in the air intake plenum under the windshield outside the car. But you might want to go under the right side of the dash to find the blower motor plug and try jumping 12V from the battery to that plug as a test of the motor before searching for the resistor block.
The block is accessed by removing the wiper arms, then the grille (5 screws), the intake shield (4 screws), resistor block cover (2 screws), unplug the connector from the resistor block (which is located behind the windshield washer resrvoir), then the 2 screws that hold the resistor block in place and pull the block forward our of the firewall. Use care in putting it back to be sure the resistors don't touch oneanother, separate them with your finger tip if necessary.
You will probably find that one of the resistors is burned out so you will need to replace the block, or the resistor if the size is shown, or go to a wrecking yard and pull one off a similar car or get a new one from the dealer.
I doubt the control switch is bad but that too can be checked with an ohmmeter. Let me know and I'll tell you how.
The resistor block is the typical cause of the blower failure.
Roland
AnswerHi Bob,
The fusible links look like normal wires except that they have some resistance which will cause them to burn out if the current draw is exceeded. There is a harness of about 10 such wires behind the battery that draw their supply from the heavy black wire coming off the + post clamp of the battery, after passing through a black torpedo shaped disconnect. They look like colored thin spaghetti. The one that supplies one section of the ignition switch and then the fan fuse is pink/black in color. You test them for continuity by pulling on both ends to see if they separate or not.
Roland
