Chrysler Repair: Fault Code on 95 Chrysler Cirrus, chrysler cirrus, exhaust gas recirculation


Question
Roland,

I recently purchased a 95 Chrysler Cirrus with 97,000 miles on it. The car is in great shape, other than  a problem with loss of power. After reading several other posts, and taking your advise from some of those posts, I checked my MIL(malfunction indicator kight). There were only (3) codes to flash. 12(recent battery disconnect), 32(powerloss/limited lamp or circuit), and 55(end of codes). I searched the other posts and didn't find anything about the actual codes, could you shed some light on this for me.

p.s. I recently had the crank sensor replaced thinking that was the problem. It wasn't!  

Thanks for any help,

Shannon Hughes

Answer
Hi Shannon,
The most relevant code is the 32 which refers specifically to the exhaust gas recirculation system and its performance. That system is for smog reduction but if it isn't performing properly when the computer tests it the 32 code will be set in the memory. It can be due to either a problem with the electric circuit of the egr transducer or to a mechanical malresponse of the egr valve to the transducer's dictates. I recommend checking the latter first because it is the more usual cause of a fault code and malperformance of the engine due to a faulty mixture that will result when it is not functioning freely.  
The 32 code is saying that when the engine control module tests the egr it doesn't seem to function, which usually means the EGR valve is stuck, most likely ajar. So you need to try and get it freed up and moving again so that it will be closed when the engine is idling or shut down, otherwise it will be difficult to start, idle, or accelerate.
The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle).  The body of the valve controls the flow of exhaust gas thru that pipe, and it is located closer to the air intake than to the exhaust manifold. That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle. Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should check to see if the engine runs better. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. Then try driving it and see if the problem is solved. If nothing has improved, then write back and I can tell you how to check the electrical wiring of the associated transducer unit.
The 12 code will be set when the battery is disconnected from its cables, or there is a loose connection of the battery to the powertrain control module. The code will stay in the memory for 50-100 key cycles even after power from the battery is restored, unless you erase the memory. So most of the time it is an irrelevant code.
Roland