QuestionThank you for the quick reply Roland,
Here are the codes that the daler gave me (I am not sure if they are all read at first scan or some at the first scan and some after replacing the sensors). I looked up in the internet and got the meaning of these codes:
P1740
TCC Or OD Solenoid Performance
P0753
Trans 3–4 Shift Sol/Trans Relay Circuits
P0720
Low Output Speed Sensor RPM Above 15 M.P.H.
Does the fact that that the transmission acts differently when cold and when hot tell us anything?
When the car is cold (first 3-4 miles after starting), it shifts from 2nd to netural and when it warms up, it will just remain in the 2nd gear and does not shift to neutral or shift up to 3rd...
Mohsen
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Followup To
Question -
I have a 1997 Chrysler Sebring with 104k miles on the engine (purchased the car about 4k miles ago). The check engine light came on at the exact same time the transmission started acting up. I just pulled out of the parking (barely going 30 mph), the check engine light came on and the transmission shifted from 2nd to neutral. When the car is cold (first 3-4 miles after starting), it shifts from 2nd to netural and when it warms up, it will just remain in the 2nd gear and does not shift to neutral or shift up to 3rd... I toke it to the dealer and they changed the two speed sensors and that did not help at all and I still have the same problem (they did not give me the scanner's readout). Do you think this is an internal transmission problem or it is something external to the transmission.
Thank you
Mohsen
Answer -
Hi Mohsen,
I believe it has to do with the transmission but the big question is whether it can be repaired without removing and taking it apart which is very expensive. It might be something that involves the electrical or hydraulic controls systems which can be serviced with the trans still in the car which is much less costly.
If the readout and sensor replacement was done recently, I would go back to the dealer and ask them, in light of the ineffective-repair that you paid to have done, would they now read the codes again, tell you exactly what the present numbers are, what do they mean, what they would propose to do, and how much they estimate it would cost? They should be willing to do that for free because of the history, but in any case try to get the codes even if you have to pay for the readout so we have a shot at assessing what is wrong. You don't have to go beyond getting the information, and if you can get it for free all the better. If you have to pay for the scan then ask if it will be credited toward the cost of the repair? But don't authorize a repair yet.
Then write back and we'll compare their proposal to what the manual says are the cause possibilities associated with the specific codes. You might also ask them to check the records for the work order for the earlier service where they replaced the sensors and to tell you what the fault codes were at that time, so we can again see if that service was appropriate for the codes that showed at that time. Bring along your receipt so they can find their copy more easily.
Roland
AnswerHi Mohsen,
I think you have a good handle on the code readout unknowns. I would hope that the 0720 is a holdover from before the sensor replacement. If not, then the wiring between the output sensor and the controller would be the next thing to verify, according to the manuals I have. The code alone does not dictate a rebuild of the trans, which is good.
On the other two codes, those point to a problem either with the wiring, relay, or solenoid circuit of the overdrive solenoid (also called the 3-4 solenoid). That solenoid and associatied relay and wiring are fortunately located in the solenoid pack which is the box-like object on the side of the trans that faces the front of the car. It is removable from below (drop the pans and drain the internal fluid, then remove some bolts to release it, at least that is how it is shown in my manual though I haven't ever done it). Then you can service the relay (switch) and the solenoid and put it back together.
I would be inclined to discuss this with both the dealer and a very experienced independent trans shop (not a franchise shop which is usually going to push toward a very expensive rebuild or substitution of a rebuilt unit) to get their opinion on my suggested approach and how much they would charge to do it. It will be alot less expensive then dropping the trans and opening it up on the theroy that there is something wrong mechanically inside the main unit. I would only be inclined to do that if servicing the solenoid pack competently didn't resolve the problem.
That is how I see the meaning of the codes. On the temp issue, I suspect it is a matter of the problem that you now have being temperature sensitive. Once that is resolved I would expect it to disappear.
Please let me know how you progress on this problem.
Roland
