Chrysler Repair: overhead console is out, chrysler town and country, chrysler town and country van

Question
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I followed your instructions and pressed the two buttons and turned the key to run but the diagnosis didn't run.  No lights displayed on the console.  I then tried to open all of the windows to see if they also did not work.  All of the windows opened including the rear windows.  The controller for the rear windows is located on the console.  Do you have any other suggestions other than taking the van in to the shop?

Thanks

Followup To
Question -
I own a 1992 chrysler town and country van.  The overhead console that shows the miles per gallon, distance to empty, etc is not working.  It worked before and then it started woking only occasionally.  Now it is never on.  No work has been performed on the vehicle.  Why is the overhead console out?  If it is a fuse, is there another item that may also not work?
Answer -
Hi Mel,
The only power for the computer is from the circuit breaker in fuse cavity #25 which also powers the power windows if you have that feature. So if you do and they work then the issue is not the circuit breaker which you can reset in any case.
There is a self-diagnostic test for the unit:
With the ignition off, press both the us/m and the step buttons, then while still holding the buttons turn on the ignition to "run" and observe the readout. If d0 is displayed then try pressing the step and then the us/m button which will show readings reading of heading and degress respectively. If d1 is displayed, press the step: if F1  is displayed there is an internal failure, then the module has to be replaced or
if F2 is displayed there is a problem with the digital data bus wiring that needs repair. If wiring and anyother bus functions are o.k. (odometer, general engine functions) then the module has to be replaced.
If d2 ia displayed press step and see if the segments of the digital display light up, if segments don't light then replace the module.
If d3 is displayed, press step and the unit will return to normal function.
So see which display comes up and let me know.
Roland


Answer
Hi Mel,
The only other check would be to verify there is 12v on the tan color wire at pin 7 of the 13-pin natural color plug that attaches to the module, when the ignition switch is in the run position. And verify by a resistance test (or continuity testor) that both grounding wires: black (pin 11) and black/light green (pin 9) are near 0 ohms to any metal part of the chassis. If those check out then you need a new module, or a used one from a salvage yard which may be a more reasonable alternative. Now that you have checked it out and see how to do it, you should be able to replace it yourself and save the labor costs.
Roland