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Followup To
Question -
i have a 92 newyorker 3.3 i took it out of town a few weeks ago on the way back it over heated and died and wont start back up i dont have any spark and dont hear the fuel pump come on i changed the computer next the battery not sure what its called but i was told it controls the spark and fuel pump but that did not work.i then checked the temp control senser it was fine i dont know what it could be please help me.and thank you for your time
Answer -
Hi Kevin,
It is too bad that you spent money for the computer when that is not a likely cause of the no spark/no fuel pump situation. Two types of items are more likely the source: the autoshutdown relay and the cam/crank position sensors.
If any one of those three were bad, there would be the symptoms that you describe. Fortunately you can probably find out which it is by seeking the fault codes that should be stored in the new computer, just from doing the crnaking without the engine starting it should have recognized the problem and logged a two digit fault code in its memory.
The most useful thing to do would be to try to get the fault codes that may stored in the engine controller memory to readout. Try using the ignition key: turn it "on-off-on-off-on" and leave it "on" (doing this quickly, no longer than 5 seconds). By "on" I mean just the normal position when the engine is running, not the cranking position. The 'check engine'light will remain on when you leave the key in the "on" position with the engine still not running. But then watch the 'check engine' light to begin flashing, then pause, flashing, pause, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause and keep track of the numbers. Repeat the readout and verify the counts are correct. Then group them in pairs in the order that they came out, thus forming two digit numbers. You may notice that the pause is shorter between the digits of a given number, and longer between the numbers themselves. Then send me a 'follow-up' question telling me the results of your readout. By the way, 55 will be the last number (two groups of 5 flashes each) and that is the code for "end of readout".
I have the troubleshooting manual for several engines and we can look up the possibilities of what is wrong based upon what fault codes you show.
There is also an essay on fault codes at the site:
http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
which gives the meaning of the code numbers. But then you need to get specific info for what exactly might be the diagnostic tests or parts to replace to complete the repair.
I'll await the results of your readout.
Roland
hi roland im still lost i tried the code test the check engine light did not come on.i was told that if the auto shut down relay clicks when u turn in key to on it good and it clicks without the code test working what can i do. and were on the motor is the cam/crank sonsors at please help.
AnswerHi Kevin,
I don't understand when you say that the check engine light didn't come on. If you simply turn the key to run without trying to start the engine, doesn't that light come on? If not then it is burned out and you should replace it so that you can read the stored codes. Let me know and I can tell you how to access the back of the cluster to change the bulb. Without a check engine light we are going to have a much harder time figuring out why you aren't getting spark or fuel pump action.
Now you also say that you don't hear the fuel pump run, but you do say the ASD relay clicks. If the ASD relay clicks then the fuel pump relay should also click so I would verify that to begin with. The ASD is in position 3 and the fuel pump relay is in position 9. The way the system is set up, if you just turn the key to run the two relays will only be energized for 1-2 seconds, but that is long enough to test for voltage at the fuel pump and spark coil pack. So that is the first thing to verify: that both relays click and that 12v gets to fuel pump (dark green/black wire at the pump);and the spark coil pack (dark green/orange wire at the 4 pin plug to the coil pack, try all four pins of the plug, see if any one of the four shows 12v for 1-2 seconds after turning the key to run) and listen for the fuel pump to run for 1-2 seconds. If so, then we know that everything is "go" for starting the engine IF we have a cam and crank sensor signal. We need then to verify that we are getting those or to put it another way that you don't have an 11 or a 54 fault code which will abort the spark and the fuel pump when you try to start it. So that is why we need to get a check engine light readout. If you have a check engine light at all, then you aught to have it after you go thru the on-off-on-off-on in 5 seconds routine, leaving the key in the on position. Then it will begin to blink on and off. Let me know if you need help to change the bulb. I can't do much without a valid code readout, unless you just want to take your chances ane throw money at the sensors hoping that is the problem.
Also, if you would be willing, I would appreciate your starting a new question with the subject "no start, no fuel, no spark...3.3L engine" as that is a clue as to what we are dealing with for any others in the future who have a similar problem. "I'm lost" is too vague of a subject to be of help to anyone.
Just highlight and copy the entire history and this response into the space where you write the question and add any results from my suggestions above. Please do that Kevin because I can't spend this much effort without the hopes that others in the future might be able to find it, even including me.
Roland
