Question-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
My 98 Town & Country LXI has a problem of starting up and then immediately dying it will do this 5 or 6 times in a row and then it won't start at all, we just hear a clicking noise. After the van sits for a few hours, it will start just fine. Sometimes it does this every couple of weeks and sometimes two days in a row, there seems to be no pattern to it, some days are dry and hot, some are rainy. We put a new battery on it and had the alternator and starter checked. One mechanic said to replace the EATX relay and we did that. Another mechanic said to replace the ignition switch that maybe there was a short in it. We haven't done that yet. This van has been put on three different computers (one at the dealer)and it never shows anything is wrong. The check engine light is never on, and most people we talk to say that unless the check engine light is on the computer will not show anything anyway. We also have a problem with the dash going out (all digital and guages) but I feel like that is totally separate from the starting problem, because it happens while driving the van. The van has a little over 107K miles. I read a response to an earlier question about a 99 T&C doing the same thing and you suggested it was a faulty theft security system. Do you think maybe it is the same thing? Please help, I'm tired of being stranded out with 5 children. Thank you.
Answer -
Hi Tiffany,
Not all faults will cause the check engine light to illuminate, so getting a readout might be in order.
But the best situation is to somehow have this happen while it is at the shop, but that is usually not going to happen since it is an intermittant.
I would suggest that you find a used spark plug or buy a new one that is correct for your engine and then when the engine refuses to start try pulling off the insulator cap of one of the spark plugs, insert the spare plug and hold the assembly by the rubber so that the metallic threads on the spare plug are touching the metal surface of the engine.
Then have one of the kids try to crank the engine over and observe whether or not you get a spark jumping from the center electrode to the outer electrode or not. That answer will tell us whether the theft system is a possible cause, or some other component that causes there to be no spark, such as the autoshutdown relay. If you get spark then our attention would change to those factors that determine the fuel/air mixture. When you turn the ignition switch to the "run" position (but not to the starter position) do you hear a buzzing sound for about a second coming from the rear of the van (the fuel tank)? That is normal, so accustome yourself to that sound. Then when you have a "no start situation, check to see if you nonetheless hear that buzzing or not. That is of diagnostic significance as well.
I would not replace anything until you have some clues based on observations. It is just a frustration to throw money at parts in the hopes of hitting the cause.
In the interim, other than seeing if a code readout reveals anything, I would suggest that the egr valve be examined to see whether its stem moves up and down freely and also to spray some WD-40 on the stem to assure free movement. That valve, if it sticks ajar, will cause the fuel mixture to be so diluted as to prevent the car from starting or idling at best. Tell me what engine you have if you don't know how to find the egr valve.
Roland
Thanks for your help and I had a no start situation again yesterday. We tried the spark plug and we did get a spark when it wouldn't start. We also heard the buzzing sound from the fuel tank when it wouldn't start. We tried getting a code but didn't get anything, maybe I did it wrong. Also the van has a 3.8L engine in it, I had no clue where the EGR valve was so we haven't tried that yet. My boyfriend unhooked the battery cable for a few minutes and then hooked it back up. When he tried to start it it wouldn't start, but then a couple of minutes later he tried to start it again and it did start. This time it started then idled down a little like it was going to die but it didn't. I went out about 30 min. later and it started again but did the same thing, idled down some but didn't die. Does this information help any? Thanks, Tiffany
AnswerHi Tiffany,
It is helpful that you have found that the fuel pump and the spark are present when it won't start because that eliminates alot of possible reasons for the no start.
I would indeed look into the egr valve question. The valve is located on the upper corner of the engine that is closest to the driver, near the intake air hose where the air enters the intake manifold. If you look behind the engine (if there is space to see it, looking from the drivers side) you will see a metal pipe about 1" in diameter that is attached to the exhaust system and is routed upward toward the corner of the engine where it enters the egr valve on the underside of that valve. You will notice that there is a saddle shaped metal shroud mounted horizontally on the valve and inside the shroud there is a metal rod with a slot in its circumference. That is the stem of the valve and it moves horizontally in and out as the valve opens or closes in response to the rpm and the gas pedal position. The valve needs to be tightly closed (stem fully positioned toward the right side of the car) or the engine will have trouble starting or running at idle because the exhaust gases are mixing with the air and diluting the mixture. So take a flat blade screwdriver and insert it in the slot and move the stem in and out to make sure itcan move easily in both directions; you will feel spring resistance in the opening direction. Then take some WD-40 or other spray type penetrating oil and spray the stem particularly where it enters the body of the valve. That will release any binding that may prevent the valve from closing tightly. Also look over the rubber hoses that are attached to the parts of the valve that are on top of the saddle to make sure that they are all attached at both ends. Then try and start the engine. If that doesn't solve it then the codes would be helpful to know.
On the codes, the year of your van is new enough that the ignition key approach no longer will cause a code readout. Only a code reader device plugged into a receptacle under the dash can readout the codes. A shop can do this and will charge about $40 for the task. Get the code numbers, what they say it means, what they say they want to do, and how much they want for the repair. Then if you choose, write me back and tell me the answers and we'll evaluate them. You can buy code readers for around $100 but whether you want to invest in that tool is up to you. Getting a relevant fault code is often the key to solving an engine problem.
Roland
