Chrysler Repair: Chrysler security system, chryslar, tail lamps

Question
Hi Roland:

Thanks to your help the problem was resolved. I put the system into diagnostic mode and did not find a problem. owever, when I exited the mode it allowed me to start teh car and remove the module. I then discovered that teh battery was shot so I replaced it. I'm not sure which problem caused the other but I suspect that the system had been trying to engage all night and ruined the battery. I have been driving it for two days so the problem must be fixed. Thank you so much for your help.

Shane Meeker


Followup To
Question -
I have a 1994 Chryslar Labarron Convertible. The security system keeps engaging and I can't start the car. I try shutting it off at the door lock but it keep coming back on when I attempt to start the car. I can hear the relay clicking continuously in the module located behind the glove box. The electric door locks just click several times when I try to lock the doors also. Prior to this, my stereo kept powering on and off in a steady rythem while I was driving. Is there a way to shut down the security system or what other advice can you offer?
Answer -
Here is the self-diagnostic test.
A diagnostic mode is available in the system to verify operation of all monitored switches or circuits. To enter diagnostics, cycle the ignition key to the accessory position 3 times, leaving the key in this position.
Upon entering diagnositics, the park and tail lamps will begin flashing to verify their operation. In addition, the horn will sound twice to indicate that the trunk key cylinder is in its proper position. Returning the ignition to the OFF position will stop the lamps from flashing while keeping the system in diagnostics.
While in diagnostics mode, a horn pulse should occur at each of the following events indicating proper operation:
(1) Beginning with all doors closed, open then close each door. The horn will sound when the door ajar switch closes, and then again when the switch opens. There must be a 1 second delay between closing and opening the switch.
(2) Open, then close the hood. The horn will sound when the hood is opened, and again when it is closed.
(3) Activate the power door locks in both the lock and unlock directions. The horn will sound after each activation.
(4) Rotate the key in each of the door lock cylinders to the unlock position. The horn will sound as the switch closes, and again when it opens. There must be a 1 second delay bwtween changing switch states, or the horn will not sound.
(5) Cycle the key to the ignition RUN position. A single horn pulse will indicate proper operation of the ignition input. This will also take the module out of diagnostics mode. For any of these tests, if the switch does not remain open or closed for at least 1 second, the horn will only sound once.
The lack of a horn pulse, during any operation, indicates a switch failure, the lack of that input in the Vehicle Theft Security system module, or a failure internal to the module. Check for continuity at the switch, if this is good, check for an open or shorted wire between the switch and the alarm module. Also, check if the SBEC has been replaced recently. Vehicle Theft Security System will not function until 20 engine cranks.
Let me know if the system fails on any of these checks so I can suggest what to do next.
Roland





Hi Shane,
There are several approached to take with this problem. First there is a self-diagnostic test that I have transcribed from the manual and sent to another questioner, but I will need to look for that in the archive tomorrow to find it and then I'll send it along to you. It might help to identify a flakey component that is causing your problem.
Second, yes you can disconnect the system BUT you must only do it with the engine running or you will be treated as a thief and the engine controller will shutdown the engine like it is doing now until it is reprogrammed. So don't do that disconnect of the plug at the module when the system is alarmed and preventing you from starting the engine.
Third, let's think about the symptoms you described. The stereo powering off and on could very well be due to a flakey contact in one section of the ignition switch. Both fuse #27 (which powers the radio) and fuse #28 (which powers one aspect of the theft system) are both getting their power from that same section (black/white wire from pin 6 of the switch). If that power source were interrupted I wonder if that might not also set off the alarm. One way to check that would be to jumper the full time 12V from the red wire or the pink/black wire at the ignition switch over to the black/white wire at the ignition switch and see if that would resolve the problem. You have to remove the steering column covers (screws on the underside cover) to get at the switch. If that by-pass solved it then you would replace the ignition switch. If not, then we move on...
The radio could also be flakey due to a loose ground connection as could a loose ground from the security module. The ground from the module is black/light green and it is grounded at the left instrument panel support (under the dash). Alternatively you could take out the glove box and jumper a good ground from pin 5 or 11 of the 21-pin plug at the theft module either of which have that color wire. The main feed for the module is a red wire on pin 9. If that one were flakey the module would interpret each interruption as a possible theft. The power on that line comes from fuse #11 so you might check that fuse to see that it is connected tightly in the socket and that its terminals are clean and that the fuse internal link isn't cracked and thus spontaneously opening when current is drawn thru it. It also powers the message center (if you have one) and the cigar lighter, and some other more important systems (air bags, etax transmission controller) so you would probably also be having troubles with those if that fuse were bad. None of the above suggestions is a magic bullet, but these are fairly tractable things to try.
So let me get back to you with the self-diagnostic test tomorrow. I'll also check another manual for some further suggestions.
Roland


Answer
Hi Shane,
That is great news! I guess that you mean the main car battery was shot; if not, let me know because I assume there isn't some sort of a NiCd battery or such in the theft module. Thanks for letting me know that it worked out so I can add that to my memory bank when another owner has a similar problem.
Roland