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Followup To
Question -
We have 4dr Neon a 2.0 sohc ,about 2 weeks ago we started the car and its idle was real low and jittery(rough)then it would stall but Starts right back up and it runs good down the road just at idle it doesnt want to run right,Now its starting to surge a little at speeds of 30-45 mph (pick-up and slack off kinda)we had the head-gasket,timing belt and a few other minor parts replaced 2 yrs ago and its been perfect till now,the fuel pump at times makes a girgling/rumbling noise when it get below 1/4 tank and has done that for a few yrs,I have tried Fuel injector cleaner that goes into the gas and to no prevail,Actually i think it made it worse.lol Any suggestions,and any help will be greatly appreaciated,We are planning a trip to NY in April and I need this fixed.I just wanna know what to have a garage look for so I dont get ripped off.Like they tried with the head gasket.Thanks...Dan
Answer -
Hi Dan,
The most useful thing to do would be to try to get the fault codes that are likely stored in the engine controller memory to readout. Try using the ignition key: turn it "on-off-on-off-on" and leave it "on" (doing this quickly, no longer than 5 seconds). Then watch the 'check engine' light to begin flashing, then pause, flashing, pause, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause and keep track of the numbers. Repeat the readout and verify the counts are correct. Then group them in pairs in the order that they came out, thus forming two digit numbers. You may notice that the pause is shorter between the digits of a given number, and longer between the numbers themselves. Then send me a 'follow-up' question telling me the results of your readout. By the way, 55 will be the last number (two groups of 5 flashes each) and that is the code for "end of readout".
I have the troubleshooting manual for the 2.0L engine and we can look up the possibilities of what is wrong based upon what fault codes you show.
There is also an essay on fault codes at the site:
http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
which gives the meaning of the code numbers. But then you need to get specific info for what exactly might be the diagnostic tests or parts to replace to complete the repair.
Roland
Dear sir,The Codes are 12,24 and 32 55 being last flashing..hope this helps me..thanks and i'll be looking for your response..ty...Dan
AnswerHi Dan,
The 12 code comes up pretty regularly. It means the battery was disconnected from the circuit recently (50-100 key on-off cycles). If that hasn't been done lately, then you might try checking the battery clamps to see that they are clean and well-connected to the battery. Always remove the -post first, then replace it last.
The 24 code means that there is something awry with the throttle position sensor. This is a variable potentiometer device mounted on the throttle body and with 3 wires that connect it to the engine controller (orange/light blue, violet/white, black/light blue). Look around on the throttle body (part that is operated by the gas pedal) to see if you can find it. Then check that it is plugged in properly and that the wires, as far as you can trace them, are not damaged by melting of their insulation. If all that looks o.k. you can unplug the connector and measure that the resistance is fixed between two of the pins and variable with the other two permutations of hookup of your meter to the three pins when you operate the throttle. The resistance should change smoothly and not have any gaps in the reading. If you find the readings aren't smooth, then buy a new sensor and install it.
The 32 code is the exhaust gas recirculation system. It is operated by vacuum and has a valve and a solenoid. Check the vacuum lines to make sure they aren't cracked or disconnected. The device(s) are located on the exhaust manifold and connected by a tube to the intake manifold (just below the throttle body). If you don't find a problem with the vacuum hoses, then you probably have a valve that is crudded up internally. You can remove it and often successfully clean out the crud, making sure that the valve stem goes up and down when you rev the engine which shows that the valve is able to open and close. Often the manuals say you need to buy a new valve but I have successfully resurrected such valves by cleaning with solvent and a wire brush.
The EGR is probably why you are stalling out at idle (valve needs to be closed tight), while the surging is likely related to the throttle position sensor.
Let me know if you find anything interesting as you correct the problems.
Roland
