QuestionQUESTION: Have a 1929 Model A Coupe. It starts sometimes, normally after we take the carb off (cold), and then put it back on. We then can get it started, but after we go around the block, shut the engine off, and try to restart it, it won't start. Adjusted timing, checked to make sure it was getting gas to the carb, checked to make sure the points were opening, but still won't fire. We checked spark, and it seems to be a little weak. We're leaning toward the coil, when it gets hot, we're getting weak spark, which in turn it won't fire. What are your thoughts on this?
ANSWER: Get the model A mechanics hand book by les andrews. A great book for about $35 from MARC or one of the parts suppliers. We all have the book and use it all the time.
If the points have been in there a long time, change them and set the gap to no more than 0.018".
Thake off the carb and take it apart, maybe even rebuild it it with the kit from synders or brattons. Make sure the two mounting flanges, the carb and the intake manifold, are flat. File them until they clean up. Don't take the manifold off. Just use a mirror until you get it flat. Then use a new gasket.
I don't think it is the coil. Clean the plugs and gap them to around 0.030"
Make sure you have the timing right. I use a test light between the moveable point arm and ground. With the engine at TDC, Spark handle up, set the timing to where, when you pull the spark handle down 2 notches, the light goes on. This is all with the key on. Push the lever up and the light should go out. Get it like this, and the timing is perfect.
One thing that model A's do is start all the time, assuming they are set up properly.
Stick with it until you get it right and have fun with it. If you continue to have problems, get back to me. You might check the compression too.
Good luck
jack
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: I timed it to your specifications, and it runs, but, it is not firing on the #1 cylinder. If we short each plug to a head bolt, we get a spark on all cylinders except the 1st cylinder. We replaced the condenser, points (gapped at .016) replaced the distributor body. The coil has been replaced recently. Could the rotor be bad or is there a maximum gap between the rotor and the distributor buttons. We tried twisting the distributor shaft clockwise & counterclockwise and also side to side to see if there was any play in the distributor bushings, and it seems normal. Do you have any thoughts or possible solutions to our problem?
AnswerThe gap to the buttons is 0.025-0.030"
I would try another dist. body if you can borrow one. They can be tricky. Also the rotor, or the center contact in the cap could be the prob. I would replace the coil wire too. I assume that # 1 plug is good. Wipe the points contacts with some clean paper or cardboard and make sure the contacts are clean. Look hard at the points to make sure they are not shorting out on the cam when it gets around to #1. This problem is common. We all think we know the A, but we get stumped all the time on the road. We all stand around and scratch our heads.
Rotate the shaft to the #1 position. turn the key on and short out the points and see if you get a spark out of the coil when you eliminate the short. Hang on tight in case you touch the coil wire. If you get a good spark, then the prob is between the coil wire and the plug wire, (strap). It has to be the cap, rotor, or body.
Let me know and stick with it.
jack
