Hyundai Repair: HYUNDAI EXCEL A/C 1992, hyundai excel, o rings


Question
QUESTION: HEY HT..thanks for all your previous help. A few fast questions; the flair end is not round all the way on the evaporator side fiting (end that comes out of evaporator under hood side)..it came off easy with a 5/8th quick disconnect but we straightened it out a bit..its only a real small area where it looked like someone previously used a screwdriver to try and disconnect it ,and gouged the flared end a bit; not much. Will it leak freon from there or do the two o-rings (after the flared end-going into evaporator)stop all leaks?
2nd question: If we are replacing the hoses and alot of oil leaked out due to pressure still in the system, do we add OIL to the compressor, or to EACh individual part (1 oz to drier, 1 ounce to evaporator, 1 oz. to condensor? please email asap thanks so much

ANSWER: 1.  You do need to have some concern if the damage is on the evaporator tube and not the a/c line.  The o-rings are the sealing components, not the garter spring and flare that hold the lines together.  But if the evaporator tube is damaged, the tube may no longer be round at the point where the o-rings need to seal.

2.  You should install as much oil as came out.  Simply pick a convenient spot and pour into the system.  Ideally, you'll want to put the oil in the high pressure side so it hopefully gets mixed with the refrigerant by the time it gets back to the compressor.  In fact, if you think you may have a leak, you might install some tracer dye as well.  It's available in small bottles and comes mixed with oil.  This way, if you need to look for a leak in the future, the dye will aid you.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks , HT
~The evaporator tube looks fine, its just a nick in the flared end, but it did hold the garter spring previous to us removing the a/c line and putting new o-rings on it..some mobile A/c guy came to the house and could not get that same line apart..he nicked the flared end..the tube itself looks fine, though.
As for the oil, we bought polymax..alot blew out originally..we added 2 oz to compressor filler plug..should we add any more into DRIER? the shop manual says to add one ounce to drier and evaporator??
 One more QUESTION , how tight in torque do you tighten the retro-fittings on high and low side(foot pounds)?
THANKS ALOT for your quick answers ..we voted you #1 on here for the BEST help!!
ANSWER: The most important thing is to get the right amount of oil in the system.  Running the A/C will mix the oil into the refrigerant.  I wouldn't put any more than 2 oz. in.  If you know how much came out, just add that much.

I'm not sure what a retro-fitting is, but as I recall some have 12mm bolts/nuts and others have 10mm bolts/nuts.  Typical torque is about 7 ft-lb on bolts/nuts that require a 10mm wrench and about 15 ft-lb on bolts/nuts that require a 12mm wrench.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: HI the retro-fitttings are the R134-A conversion kits..they screw on the old R-12 fittings where the a/c goes in..One is on the HIGH, one on the LOW side..just wondering how much to tighten them, thanks for everything; sorry so many questions!
THANKS

Answer
Okay, I understand now.  I'd say the 7 ft-lb should be about right.  This is the sort of thing I'd never actually measure.  Ordinarily I'd tighten by hand (with wrench) until "snug."  Since this doesn't really hold anything together, you simply need it tight enough to seal and not come loose.