Hyundai Repair: 1990 Hyundai Excel Wont Start, spark plug wires, starter solenoid

Question
QUESTION: I have a '90 excel that none of the injectors will engage. At first there was very little spark, so I replaced the distributor cap, rotor and the spark plug wires. After that did nothing, I replaced the coil and the starter since it also died during this. Still nothing, so I replaced the ignition control module and finally got spark. But now the fuel won't get past the injectors. The pump is working and fuel is getting to the injectors but they won't engage. This is now the only thing keeping the car from turning over, since when starter fluid or a little gas is used it starts up for a second. I am guessing it is the ECM?

Also previous problems the car had were, the backup lights wouldn't come on (no voltage to the bulb) and a clicking sound when trying to start that I would have to turn the key several times before it would start. During this you could hear the fuel pump engage, but the starter wouldn't. These problems still exist now even after replacing all of the above mentioned parts and all of the fuses appear fine.

Thanks for any help,
Brian
ANSWER: Chances are good that the optical sensor in the distributor has gone bad.  The ECM uses this sensor to determine the crankshaft and camshaft positions.  To my knowledge, you must purchase the distributor assembly to get the sensor, and that won't be cheap.  You'll definitely want to look for a used one in good condition if you can find one.

Hyundai has a technical service bulletin about an intermittent no-start condition on the 1990 Excel.  The cause is high resistance in the starter solenoid circuit.  If, when the problem occurs, you get voltage to the starter solenoid but it doesn't click or doesn't engage the starter, you should install a relay kit to provide direct battery voltage to the starter solenoid.  

The no-start repair procedure is detailed in TSB 93-36-002.  You can view the TSB at www.hmaservice.com (requires Internet Explorer).  You'll need to register for a free account to access the website.

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QUESTION: I gave up and ended up getting a new one even though it was quite pricy. I was wondering though, my distibutor is the original and it has an additional wire going to the topside of it to a small cylinder and the new one does not. I couldn't find anything on what it is. Hopefully it still works and can be added to the new one. I guessed it couldn't be the optical sensor, that would be an internal part?

Thanks for the info on the relay kit, that will have to wait awhile though, unless the problem can damage my new starter?

Wow, these parts lasted 17 years, I still had the original starter, distributor and ignition control module. And the original ignition coil just went out about 1.5 years ago.

I should know soon if this fixes it, I will definitely let you know. Thanks again for all this help, major kudos ; )
ANSWER: The small can is called a condensor.  You may need to transfer it from the old distributor to the new one.

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QUESTION: Well it didn't fix it. :( The new distributor is in but the injectors still won't fire. The battery was disconnected for 30min just in case the computer needed to be reset, but no luck. I am not sure what to do now, any ideas on what could still be wrong?

Thanks,
Brian

Answer
First, doublecheck and be sure you have the distributor installed properly.  If the gear is one tooth off, the car won't start.

If installed properly, I'd like to go back and verify some things.  I'm not happy that the distributor didn't fix your car, and I'm sure you're much less happy about it than I am.  Presuming there's a component issue, the next place I'm thinking would be the ECM, but ECM failures are very, very rare.  So, before you put any further parts on the car, I think it's wise to test and be as sure as we can before that's done.  

I'm presuming the check engine lamp illuminates for five seconds when you turn the key on since you say you're getting fuel to the fuel rail.

If you didn't check your fuel pressure, you should do so.  It's possible you have fuel but not enough pressure to open the injectors.  This will require a fuel pressure gauge and an adaptor for the fuel filter to which the fuel pressure gauge can be attached.

You should probably also check to see whether the computer is pulsing the injectors.  This will require a tool called a noid light.  It has a resistance about the same as a fuel injector and plugs into the injector connector.  If the noid light flashes when you crank the engine, you know the ECM is pulsing the injectors.