QuestionI checked all of the slow blow fuses, all were fine. I even tested the voltage inside th lugs after these fuses and all was fine. I did manage to test continuity to starter and all was fine. I tried to jump to selenoid and not even a click, but I did have spak, so I believe the starter is shot after all. That still does not explain the headlamp issue though. I can not speak for my frien, but I never hooked any jumpers up wrong, so I am assuming this is not the case. I made sure the ground on the headlamp circuit was fine as well. I am about at my wits end and may have to take it in, something I have never done with any car I have ever owned in my 35 years of life, then again I have never owned a foreign car either, and may not own this one if it does not go well.Thank you for all of your help. I can only hope that whoever I take it to is as knowledgable as you. Seeing as I have not used repair shops for this problem would you recommend a small shop or the dealer? I am jst afraid the dealer has techs or codereaders and not real mechanics.
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Well I have checked the engine ground and the Ignition switch. All seems to be in order. I can hear all of the relays clicking for the headlamps and the starter when the switches are thrown. The only thing I did discover was that there was no powere coming from the 15 amp sensor fuse in the main fuse box. I was unable to check it while the engine was running for obvious reasons. Not knowing what sensor that was for I assume that it would be appropriate for it not to show current going through that circuit unless the motor was running as there was nothing for it to sense. I am quite stuck on this one and can't figure if the two are even connected problems. I am assuming so because both worked prior to being parked. Could this be a simple battery issue? Is it possible to read 12+ volts on a battery without enough amps to power the circuits? I have hooked it to a booster and had the same problem.
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I recently aquired a 1994 Hyundai scoupe 12 valve 1.5 from a friend who had parked it and all was fine. Three days later the starter did not work so he parked it for 5 months on a tender. When I got it it push started and runs great. Starter will not turn and now headlamps and instruments do not work. Everything else electrical seems to work. I checked all the relays and fuses that I could find to no avail. There seems to be no real current drop when the starter switch is turned. I tried to tap on the starter, no luck and I am unable to bench test it myself. I do not know if the two problems are related. I am at my wits end.
Answer -
Before you remove the starter, I think you may want to check the ignition switch. There are two ignition-on feeds, and the gauges and headlamps operate off the same feed. Stuff your head under the left side of the dash and make sure the ignition switch connector isn't loose. If not, test the ignition switch itself. Also check the ground where the battery cable attaches to the transmission. I've seen a few cars that had some weird electrical issues because this was loose.
If want to run a simple test on the starter (and you can reach the terminals), shorting the main battery cable lug to the solenoid terminal should make the starter operate. If it doesn't, your options are only a few:
1. You're not getting proper battery voltage at the main lug,
2. You don't have proper engine ground (see above), or
3. The starter itself is bad.
It seems like you have a pretty good idea what you're doing electrically, so you may wish to register for a free account at www.hmaservice.com (requires Internet Explorer). Once inside you can view the schematics under the ETM (Electrical Troubleshooting Manual) tab as well as the shop manual and technical service bulletins.
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In the schematics, I see a 10A fuse for the oxygen sensor which gets its power from the fuel pump relay. I would think this would be the one labeled "sensor." It wouldn't power up either side unless the ECM is operating the fuel pump. If you turn the igntion key to the start position and release to on (or just turn to the on position-- I can't remember now-- I've worked on a few kinds of cars and they're not all the same), the fuse may energize for a few seconds. This fuse itself shouldn't keep the car from running-- the only thing it powers is the oxygen sensor heater.
Here's a question: Is it possible that jumper cables or the booster were hooked up to the battery incorrectly? I've seen this blow the main slow blow fuse, with some odd electrical problems resulting. I believe there's a little box on the side of the battery with slow blow fuses in it. Open the cover and check in there (as well as the underhood fuse/relay box) and look at all the elements in the slow blow fuses (the ones with the clear plastic covers). If any of them are blown, you'll need to replace them. I believe the main one is 50A and bolts in.
If the battery shows 12V unloaded, then it's possible it doesn't have the amperage to operate some of the devices. But if you are attempting to start the car or turn on the lamps and the battery still shows 12V while doing this, then the battery isn't the problem. Doesn't prove the battery is good, but the battery isn't the root cause.
AnswerI think you're pretty safe hanging the starter.
If all the slow blow fuses are okay, then I wouldn't worry any further about any reverse polarity issues.
For the headlamps, I'd recommend giving it a little more effort on you're part. It sounds to me that you can figure this out as long as you've got a schematic. If you haven't already, get your account at www.hmaservice.com. Once in, you can print the headlamp schematic. (As I write this, the site seems to be down, so they may be updating or something.) A good starting point is to see whether the headlamp relay clicks when you turn the headlamps on/off. If it does, then you know whether the control side of the relay circuit is good. You should have two powers to the headlamp relay (one hot with key in on position and one hot at all times), the switched ground from the headlamp switch, and the load circuit to the headlamps. If there's another relay the same in the relay box, you can switch them and see what happens. You can also jump the always hot circuit to the load circuit and see if the headlamps light. I think once you have a look at the schematic, it'll be pretty obvious what I'm talking about.
If you do decide you need to take it in somewhere, solicit opinions from people you know. If you know anyone who has or had a Hyundai, ask them about the competence of the service department at the dealer. In my area, most dealers have technicians with a range of abilities, so getting your car repaired correctly is more a matter of making sure the proper technician gets the car. But things could be different in your area. All you really need is a shop that's competent at electrical work.
