Jaguar Repair: Battery draining, fuse panel, door switches

Question
QUESTION: I have a 1985 xj6 the # 3 main fuse driver side and the # 5 fuse passenger side is draning my battery. My thought is #3 controls inside lights and antenna. I notice that when I removed the # 3 fuse the the 2 back door marker lights went off. I thought # 5 passenger control these light with the locks. Thanks new battery and alternator.

ANSWER: Hi Isaac,
The main (driver's fuse panel)fuse panel fuse #3 powers the rear door lights, trunk light, interior and map lights. The door switches turn the door lights on and off. There is no #5 fuse in the passenger's fuse panel (Aux panel) All fuses in that panel are in the teens. #17 fuse in that panel powers the front door lights and the door switches turn them on and off.
If any of the door lights are on with the doors closed then the switch or wiring is at fault.

A good rule of thumb test on battery drain is to turn everything off and remove either battery cable and put a 12v test light between the cable and the battery post and if it lights up brightly you have a draw that can run the battery down. (other than if you have installed a security system or a stereo system that may draw current. The trip computer/clock draws a little.
But it is powered by #7 fuse in the main panel.
Howard

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks I did the 12v test and #3 and # 17 is bright. I did notice that when the passenger door was closed and I open any other door the door light would come on. I changed door switches and reversed lights still lights when I open another door and goes out when all doors closed. Thanks.any ideas.

Answer
It is normal that one switch turns on the other lights also. You are just concerned that the lights are off when the doors are closed. You didn't tell me if you checked the trunk light.
To find a current draw on any circuit you must start disconnecting all items on that circuit until you locate the one that is on when everything is turned off.

This may make it necessary to take down one fuse panel at a time.

I had to make up a test lead when in the dealership to make the operation easier because you can not have the battery connected when you remove the fuse panel. I removed a battery cable and then remove one fuse panel (because you should never work on more than one circuit at a time) I made up a test lead with a inline fuse and parallel to that fuse I put a test light bulb and a 12v warning buzzer. I connected my test lead between the battery cable and the post. This gave me power inside with the fuse box loose and if I shorted anything while working, it would blow the inline fuse and make the warning light come on and the buzzer go on thus telling me I shorted something. An auto circuit breaker would have been a better idea. You can then remove the inline fuse and with the buzzer going and the test light on you can start unplugging connections until you find the problem. Keep in mind you will need the doors closed at that time.
Howard