QuestionJust a few follow up question. One, if this involves smacking the hammer to loosen the big nut what about reinstallation? Do I smack it to tighten it too? I have heard to use a crowbar pryed against the pulley and then loosening the big nut with a wrench and also tightening it once the NEW PUMP is in.
Two, I have read in the Chilton's Manual that the fan clutch shouldn't be laid down as the silicon could leak into the bearings.
Three, I also read that coolant should be used to lube the O-ring on the tube?
Can you clarify?
Thanks for your reply
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Followup To
Question -
Hi Doug,
I hope you can help me out. I want to replace my water pump but I'm having a problem with the big nut thats holding the fan clutch and the pulley. I need something to hold the pulley from moving while I loosen the big nut and also when tightening once the new pump is in. I have the 5.2L 318cid engine. Also can you give me an idea what's the book time for this job?
Answer -
Labor time pays 1.5 hours to do this job. What you will need to do is put the belt back on (if you've already removed it) and use a large wrench on that nut. They make special fan wrenches and sometimes even comes in a kit for multiple vehicles. You'll put the wrench on the nut as smack it with a hammer swinging from right to left. Extreme cauting should be take because you're swinging that hammer right at the a/c compressor and forcing the wrench towards the altenator (pullies).
There's a second way to remove this but it involves a long punch or chisel and requires you to tap right on the edge of the nut to try and jar it loose. Both practices require a sudden jolt to the nut to make it spin more than the water pump itself. You won't be able to keep applying constant pressure like you would with a lug nut. Sudden and violent is really the only way to make it pop loose. Once it is you will finish unscrewing it being careful not to let the fan fall back in to the radiator poking a whole in it. After you get the fan off you can remove the belt.
You will need to move the a/c compressor out of the way as well as fold the altenator (still attatched to the larger bracket) out of the way in order to gain access to water pump. When you move the a/c compressor you do NOT have to discharge the a/c system and it will fold easily towards the passenger rear of the engine compartment. Sometimes using a bunjee cord will help so as not to complete fold an a/c line. When you start moving the altenator make sure you've disconnected the battery and do NOT lay the metal bracket on the battery without something insulating it such as a shop towel or fender cover.
Finally, get a new bypass hose and bypass tube o-ring. The bypass hose goes from the water pump to the intake manifold. The bypass o-ring seals the black metal tube for the heater hose to the water pump. Make sure you clean the old o-ring out of the tube, install the new one (grey or black from the dealer) and put some RTV sealant on the o-ring. This will not only help the o-ring slide in easier but will help seal the tube in the event that there are any small blemishes or dings in the metal.
Doug
AnswerYou use the same method to reinstall the fan (nut) as you do to remove it only not as much effort is required to tighten because the natural motion of the fan once running is to tighten it up more.
I've not heard anything about laying the fan out in a certain manor. In past experiences I've laid them every which way with no reports back of failure. If you find somewhere that is says otherwise then I would probably pay attention to those instructions. Should you feel so inclined I would even go so far as to say to store the fan in an upright position the same way it sits on a car. That may be nit-picking but it can't hurt.
As far as the antifreeze to lube the o-ring. Yeah, it will lube it but it will not do anything to actually seal it in the event the surfaces have blemishes. Antifreeze may be good for a new water pump, o-ring, and tube but I still prefer RTV to both lube and seal.
Doug
