Land Rover Repair: Disco 2000 - ticking noise, disco 2000, brakes and rotors


Question
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Followup To
Question -
For about three months now, I've experience a ticking sound coming from my engine, like an engine in need of a tune-up, which I plan to get done.  However, more recently, I've noticed a second ticking that seems to be directly linked to acceleration.  As I accelerate the ticking (almost bleeding sound) becomes more pronounced.  But when I take my foot off the acelerator the bleeding sound goes away.  Does this sound like a common problem?  A colleague says that he thinks that I have an exhaust leak, while a local LR mechanic, who first said the same thing,but after listening more closely, says that I have a bad gasket, and that my car should be running hot.  Problem is, my car does not run hot, but just started running rough (2 days ago) when I get to higher speeds (75-85 mph).  Any idea on what the problem could be?  Also any suggestions on the best brakes and rotors to replace OEM?  I plan to get the brakes and rotors done at the same time as the other work, but may do them myself to save a few $$$.  Thanks


Answer -
Hi Phil,

could be sticking exhaust valves.  This sounds like like what you describe and it does rob you of power without generating lots of heat. For Series II Disco's, this is a common problem and requires a valve job to repair. Also can return after every  50,000 miles, depending on how you drive, where you drive and what fuel you purchase.  Use the highest Octane you can find (94 at Sunoco).  Better for your Disco and the environment too!

Regarding brake work, I use Raybestos on my Series I.  No complaints.  The series II has wider rotors (lucky you) so you'll have to see if Raybestos carries them.  Vented rotors are better - allowing to cool down faster and better stopping ability.  If money was a concern, do the brakes yourself!  A valve job will run you about $2000US and a complete brake job (at the dealer) will probably be the same. $4000 is too much for me to handle in one bite!

If you do the brakes yourself, expect the following approximate costs: pads $100(fr&bk); rotors $100 each, $15 brake fluid (perform a complete flush); plus your time (0$).  

Check around online for the best prices and locations.  There are ways of saving and this is one of website I use often:

(http://www.greatautoparts.com)

I found vented rotors for your Disco for $69.  Far less than the $300 from your dealer.

Best of luck,

JohnMc

Thanks John, to follow-up on your anwser, is this valve repair the same as replacing the exhaust gasket?  If so, then my mechanic (independent British/LR cars) was right.  Regarding the brake work, I think I'll embark on this adventure myself.  I should be able to get it done, though I've only done basic work, like oil changes, etc.  Will I need any special tools (other than the basic week-end warriors stuff) and are/were there any past postings for DIY's regarding a complete brake job posted anywhere? Thanks for your time.  

Phil

Answer
Phil,

if your Disco is in need of an exhaust gasket on your manifolds, you could hear and smell the difference.  Its possible that a gasket is in need BUT it is not the same as the sticking exhaust valves that I describe.  The valve job is more labour intensive and is basically removing the top of your engine rocker covers, arms, springs etc.  The exhaust gaskets that your dealer speaks of could be the gasket between the engine block and the exhaust manifold leading to the downpipe and exhaust system below your Disco.  

If you notice a loss of power, especially on hot humid days, long trips and steep hills, this could be a sign of the dreaded sticking valve.  As the valve 'plug' sticks it can make a ticking noise, depending on how sever the buildup is.

The only way to tell (that I know) is to open up the engine and examine the valves.  At this point, you might as well do the job - the labour to examine pays for almost have the work!  If you are in need of an exhaust gasket, you may be able to find fine carbon soot around the manifold, depending on how sever the leak is.  You'd also feel compressed exhaust air where there should not be!

Regarding the brakes, I suggest you purchase a brakeline bleeder wrench, a caliper piston clamp, a heavy vehicle socket set and a pair of circlip pliers.  Yes, there are past postings for brake repair and you can always post a question if you get stuck.

Here is my LRDisco website that has some tech pages to help you out with your brake job:

http://groups.msn.com/LRDiscovery/shoebox.msnw

Best of luck,

JohnMc