Motorcycle Repair: 73 honda cl350 horn, 1973 honda cl350, phillips screw


Question
hey Bill! I recently purchased my first motorcycle, a 1973 Honda CL350. The other day, I accidentally tipped the bike when I lost my footing and it fell to the left. After that I tried to turn the bike on to let it run for a minute and when I turned the key in the ignition, the horn blared and stayed on and I couldn't get it to turn off. Could you tell me what I need to do to disengage the horn until I can get it to a shop to have someone look at it? Thanks!

Alexis

Answer
Alexis, when the bike tipped over it landed on the left clutch lever/switch assembly. Normally, the switch is pinned to the handlebar internally, to prevent it from turning/shifting on the handlebar.

What happened is that either the pin is missing or was sheared off and the switch/lever assembly turned on the handlebar, which pinched the horn wire against the bars. The horn switch is just a ground for the horn circuit and now it is grounded all the time.

If you can get the screws loosened, you can remove them, split the switch/lever bracket in half and you will see where the wire(s) were pinched inside.

Otherwise, look at the horn assembly itself and find where the wires connect to the wiring harness. Pull the connectors apart to take the horn out of the electrical wiring circuit.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-1972-HONDA-CL350-HORN-CHROME-OEM-/120770932822 for an isolated look at the horn and wiring connectors.  

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CB175-CB350-CB450-CL175-CL350-CL450-LEFT-SWITCH-HORN-352  for close-up of the switch and the Phillips screw that holds the switch halves in place. These screws can be very tight, if never loosened previously.

The potential problem may be that you can't get easy access to the wiring connectors as they are somewhat buried up under the fuel tank, in with the coil wires, where they meet the wiring harness. Depending on a number of factors, you may or may not easily be able to extricate the rear fuel tank tab from the rubber mount, then slide the fuel tank backwards enough to clear the front mount cushions. If you can, the you should be able to lift up the front of the tank enough to find the wiring connections.

If the fuel tank crossover tube is too short/brittle and/or you can't get the rear mount loose, then just reach up with a pair of wire cutters and clip the wires. Then, you can have the shop or your repair person repair the horn wires and the handlebar wiring issues at the same time.

You might get lucky and just use the mirror/lever on the left side as levers to help rotate the switch assembly back to where it was, previously. This may un-ground the wire temporarily, but it should be repaired properly, as soon as possible.

Basically the switch halves should separate horizontally and the clutch lever should be pretty much horizontal (slightly downward) to the ground, as well. If it is turned upwards, then the whole switch needs to be repositioned. The horn wire in the switch harness needs to be repaired/insulated and the switch reassembled and relocated on the handlebar correctly.

Bill Silver