QuestionFollowup To '71 CL350 oil pump/cam chain tensioner
Thanks, Bill, for answering my questions. I had previously replaced the original left and right crankcase side cover gaskets but maybe the old ones had deteriorated and some pieces are still in the oil passages. I have already reinstalled the oil pump/filter, the clutch assembly and installed the right side crankcase cover to check oil flow to the top end. It is now pumping through the oil filter cover but doesn't seem to go to the top end. If I blow air up through the upper oil passage in the right side cover, it does come out at the left and right outer rear cylinder studs but like you wrote maybe the air should be forced down from the top - which I will try after removing the side covers so any particles can go out the oil passage openings that the covers seal. If you can remember is the 6mm bolt just below the rear left cylinder stud some way of checking oil flow or pressure? And is there anywhere to get a diagram showing the routing of the oil passages? Also does the oil passage at the rear below the cylinders provide oil to the piston rings, wrist pins and bearings - maybe oil is not developing enough pressure when engine is turned by hand and just feeds the oil to the previously mentioned areas?
Now that I know of the correct cam chain tension adjustment, do you think a complete engine tear down should be done to get all the metal shavings out to be safe since it doesn't have a paper-medium oil filter? I have changed the oil and cleaned the filter after 10 miles a couple of times using the oil from winter storage in other bikes.
I haven't checked the spark advance timing with the engine running yet but the bike did run good, except for the ignition timing seems to change a few degrees after running the engine. I think the backing plate for the points moves slightly as if the two retaining screws don't clamp it down firmly - plate moves when tightening the screws, was compensating for this though.
I did have the carbs disassembled and the diaphragms were still intact but some gas does leak from the idle mixture screws on this bike (both carbs) and it didn't appear o-rings were previously there. Is this common on the C.V. type carbs on this bike? Is it possible the float needles are not shutting fully or maybe the needle or float valve seat are worn - a newer bike I have had rubber tips on the float needle, on the 350 its just metal. The bike was running fine until the oil pump problem.
Thank you for any additional help or comments you can provide. Hopefully I don't take up to much more of your time and I'll try the website you mentioned when I'm sure what parts I need to replace.
Jason
AnswerThanks, Bill, for answering my questions. I had previously replaced the original left and right crankcase side cover gaskets but maybe the old ones had deteriorated and some pieces are still in the oil passages. I have already reinstalled the oil pump/filter, the clutch assembly and installed the right side crankcase cover to check oil flow to the top end. It is now pumping through the oil filter cover but doesn't seem to go to the top end. If I blow air up through the upper oil passage in the right side cover, it does come out at the left and right outer rear cylinder studs but like you wrote maybe the air should be forced down from the top - which I will try after removing the side covers so any particles can go out the oil passage openings that the covers seal. If you can remember is the 6mm bolt just below the rear left cylinder stud some way of checking oil flow or pressure?
YES....
And is there anywhere to get a diagram showing the routing of the oil passages? Also does the oil passage at the rear below the cylinders provide oil to the piston rings, wrist pins and bearings - maybe oil is not developing enough pressure when engine is turned by hand and just feeds the oil to the previously mentioned areas?
SHOP MANUAL has Oil flow diagrams. Must be running to pump it all to the top end. Oil flows up the cylinder studs where the o-rings are and feeds the cam bearings and rocker arms/shafts, etc, then drains down the middle of the tower to the crankcase.
Now that I know of the correct cam chain tension adjustment, do you think a complete engine tear down should be done to get all the metal shavings out to be safe since it doesn't have a paper-medium oil filter? I have changed the oil and cleaned the filter after 10 miles a couple of times using the oil from winter storage in other bikes.
Steel filings could be removed with a magnetic drain plug, but alloy filings from the cylinders are going to continue to circulate around until they get trapped in the filter. They are not a good thing to get into the ball/roller bearings of the crankshaft, etc. Depends on how small the particles are to a certain degree.
I haven't checked the spark advance timing with the engine running yet but the bike did run good, except for the ignition timing seems to change a few degrees after running the engine. I think the backing plate for the points moves slightly as if the two retaining screws don't clamp it down firmly - plate moves when tightening the screws, was compensating for this though.
SOUNDS Like you got it right. Always check it after tightening screws down for the last time. Also, rubbing blocks will wear down in the first few hours, retarding the timing by closing down the gaps slightly.
I did have the carbs disassembled and the diaphragms were still intact but some gas does leak from the idle mixture screws on this bike (both carbs) and it didn't appear o-rings were previously there. Is this common on the C.V. type carbs on this bike? Is it possible the float needles are not shutting fully or maybe the needle or float valve seat are worn - a newer bike I have had rubber tips on the float needle, on the 350 its just metal. The bike was running fine until the oil pump problem.
Normally there are small O-rings around the idle mix screws. High float levels could aggravate the fuel mixtures and leaks around jets and emulsion tubes. A leaking float valve will cause overflow at the brass tube on the float bowl. 350 carbs are coded by letters/numbers stamped in the bodies and there are about 4 types with different jetting/settings.
Thank you for any additional help or comments you can provide. Hopefully I don't take up to much more of your time and I'll try the website you mentioned when I'm sure what parts I need to replace.
Bill Silver
