Steering Column Repair: 1996 F-150 Wont start after shift tube replacement, e40d, column shifter


Question
QUESTION: Hi. I hope you can help me. The column shifter was sloppy on my 1996 F-150 XLT 5.8L with E40D and tilt, so following the sparse directions I could find, I lowered the column and took it apart without touching the airbag, and removed the old shift tube. I transferred the spring, shift lever, and lower lever (with both pins) to the new tube, and reinstalled everything. I put the lock cylinder back in, and when I tried to start the truck, it wouldn't start. Everything was working fine, but the starter would not engage. Also, the key would not go back into the LOCK or ACC position. I took everything back apart, and found that the tube was slightly misaligned (the metal tab attached to the column needs to lift up into the shift tube when in park to allow the lock cylinder to return to the lock and acc position - I discovered this by accident). I put everything back together again, and all of the key positions work, but to get the key back into the LOCK or ACC positions, I have to push the lever up slightly (like I have to put it farther into park - it seems as if the tube is still slightly misaligned somehow). The truck still won't start. When I look at the tiny slot on the side of the ignition switch while turning the key to START, I can see a bar moving back and forth inside, so I think the ignition actuator rod is still okay. I never had starting issues before I took the column apart, and I didn't unplug any harnesses or connectors (except for the PRND21 indicator wire)  If I turn the key to RUN, and jumper the solenoid with a screwdriver, the truck starts right up, so I've ruled out any other starting system possibilities. The actual shifting is solid and secure, and goes into every gear. Is there something else I missed replacing the shift tube that is keeping the ignition switch from engaging?

ANSWER: Hi Eric:

Thank you for the detailed explanation.  It's not uncommon for the neutral switch to become mis-aligned over time.  All you really need to do is adjust the shift cable under the truck where it attaches to the transmission.  You  didn't do anything wrong in your repair.  This just happens on some vehicles when repairs are done...things change.
Under the truck, at the end of the shift cable where it attaches to the transmission is a large connector allowing the inner cable to slide out of the outer cable.  On that large connector is a slide that will slide up and release allowing the outer housing to be adjusted.  With help, and making sure you don;t get run over in the process, adjust the outer housing so that when you put it in park, you are actually putting it further than it was before, thus allowing the neutral switch to connect in park and start the truck.
I hope that all makes sense
Good luck

In the future, we have step-by-step detailed instructions for these types of problems on our website.  www.stolenandrecovered.com

Doug

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thank you for the quick reply. I called a local trans shop to see of they could take care of this for me. They said it would only cost $10 or so to adjust it. They had me try holding the key in the RUN position and shift through the gears while holding it, saying if it was a cable adjustment that I should catch neutral at some point and hear it crank. Well, it didn't crank at all. They think the ignition switch is out of alignment, but they could be just after my money. Do you think it's possible that it's the ignition switch AND the shift cable since it won't turn over in neutral either? I really appreciate all of your help

Answer
I would not expect both to happen, no.  It sounds like the shop you spoke to is actually quite honest and helpful.  I would suggest you check the 'timing' of the key and lock again.  If you have it installed off 1 tooth, you won't get enough action to engage the starter.  alternately, remove the switch form the bottom of the column (2 30torx screws) and see if you can start it by manually sliding a screwdriver in the slot where the rod goes, checking both park & neutral...then you will know if the switch has failed or if it is a linkage and alignment problem in the column still.

Doug