Motorcycle Repair: Honda ST90, honda st90, adjustment screws


Question
HI,
Have done my best to get it running following instructions in manual and tune up parts.
It is in excellent condition, been stored properly.
It runs rich.
Have played with the point setting a bit from instructions, has not helped.
Set float at 21mm, tried it at 22mm
Unable to adjust the 2 carb adjustment screws as instructions indicate, fouls out the plug.
Did not replace needle and seat in carb, looks smooth and not worn, holds closed when I blow into it.
Thanks for advice
Terri  

Answer
Terri, stay with the stock settings...

Timing at the F mark, but check the spark advancer for being seized up. When the ignition timing doesn't follow the engine rpms, the vacuum signals to the carburetor are all out of whack.
Spark advancer is behind the point plate, so mark the plate if you want, remove it, twist the point cam back and forth to see if it springs back or not. If not, mark the cam on the advancer base, remove the whole assembly by pulling the bolt on the end of the camshaft. Take cam off the advancer base, clean the shaft and the hole in the cam, lube it with light grease, reassemble it with the cam located properly on the base portion. Note: it can be installed 180 out and the bike will not run! Once the points are cleaned and regapped to .012-014" set them to open at the F mark alignment on the flywheel. Leave the point cover off, start the engine and watch the points. There may be some flickers of random sparks, but if you see a lot of steady arcing, then the condenser is weak and needs replacing.

Put the float level back to 21mm and carefully inspect the idle jet #35 size and main jet #65. Needle clip in the middle of the 5 notches. Rich mixtures can either be too much fuel or not enough air. All the internal carb passages must be clean, especially the bowl vent passages.
Try running w/o air filter for a few minutes and see if that is hampering the performance. Even though they look clean, the pores plug up after 30 years and they stop flowing are as they are supposed to.
If there are air leaks in the intake manifold (gaskets or o-rings), you will have to raise the idle speed to compensate, which will open the slide so much that the idle jet will not be in the equation, thus no response to adjustments.

Make sure that the valves are adjusted correctly to .002" and try to determine of the compression is up in the range of 150-175psi. Tight valves and/or low compression will cause misfires that will foul plugs quickly. Check the plug cap for excessive resistance. Should be about 5k ohms on an ohmmeter.

Check gas cap venting for being open during operation. This will cause them to stall out from lack of fuel, however.

Hopefully, the muffler isn't plugged up internally.

Be sure that the battery is fully charged, so it can get a good hot spark. This is a battery operated ignition system, but they can run with a marginal battery and a lot of kicking, once the charging system kicks in. Not a good way to diagnose the problem, though.

Hope this gives you some new ideas...   

Bill Silver